Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas...i'm just after some opinions on what you would do next if you were in my position...i have a rb20det R32 making 217rwkw @ 19.5psi with the following mods:

1989 RB20DET R32

3" Turboback Exhaust with 3" Metalcat

Hybrid FMIC

Bosch 040

GTR Injectors

Z32 afm

Turbotech Bleeder

Aerospeed cam gears

HKS 2535

DR DRIFT Remap

To me the usable power at the moment is decent but i was wondering if there was anything more i could do...perhaps cams or some head work? If you were in my position what else would you do to the current setup to give it a slight edge? I'm not keen on a rb25 or any other conversion just yet and the rest of the car (clutch, suspension, lsd, brakes) have been done already...i'm looking for genuine suggestions to undertake in the near future as i'm enjoying the car as is for now...Cheers!!

Heres a dyno chart from my last tune...the lower reading was from the last tune without the Metalcat...

217rwkw.jpg

Edited by limpus
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179318-what-next-for-my-rb20det/
Share on other sites

Nice result mate.

I have to agree with you there, stick with the RB20! To many people give up on it too quick.

What do you use the car for?

A good set of suspension (coilover's) would go a long way, you could make some good use of that 217rwkw! That would really help you get the power to the ground, weather your drifting it or using it for track use. Even on the street it would be quiet an improvement.

CAMs would also be alright, maybe more response, quicker spool up?

How does the HKS2535 go on the RB20? Does it feel laggy or you don't miss it at all?

Good luck with it! Keep us posted on your results.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu

Thanks mate...i've already got suspension...and done the rear subframe bushes too along with a 1.5 way lsd...with any larger turbo the rb20 would be alittle laggier than stock...but its all worth it above 4000rpm when it comes alive...i was looking for alittle icing on the cake for the engine...like head work or cams as mentioned or even a proper exhaust manifold...i believe i have already done most of the usual bolt on mods so now i'm looking for ideas...cheers....

Power is just a number... Head porting and cams will make more power but it won't be worth it for the amount of cash you fork out. Besides 217rwkW is crazy for an rb20 especially with such a nice power curve, I'd be happy with that and enjoy it.

Edit: Maybe an ebc

Edited by BAMR33

enjoy it for a year with no more mods. when the 20 pops build a larger capacity engine. it is so much easier to squeeze power out of a larger capacity to begin with. don't waste any more on it it is already a more than capable package just enjoy it :down:

Dr Drifts dyno reads a tad lower then DD. In my experience its around 10rwkws lower.

It seems nice in the mid up to 4,000rpm. But considering the boost you are running is still a bit down on what i would have expected. Maybe the exhaust is hurting power and response a little. I woudl be interested to see how yo ugo with cams. I had no luck with cams in my car. The cams didnt gel with the turbo i run. Looking at the std RB20 cams they are not too different to RB26s, only slightly less lift. So the std cams are pretty big for a 2L

As others have said. Just enjoy thrashing around in it until you win lotto then buy a TVR :down:

All very valid points...thanks fellas...i did think it was down on power slightly but like mentioned power is only a figure...i am enjoying the car as is for now... the exhaust might be alittle restrictive still as i had a large resonator welded in to keep exhaust noise down...i'm inclined to agree with most of you and just leave the car as is...was just looking for ideas...thanks for your input guys...cheers....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...