Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

use the hi octane exchange sump. way better than a puny 800ml extra. ive seen bearings spin on gtrs wityh the extension. simply not enough oil.

the sump i made holds around 8.5 litres to the high mark on the stick. no surge at all as yat.

you can't use both. but for me unless you have a high volume oil pump (like tomei, trust etc) I would use the baffles.

simply because to fit the extension your sump needs to be cut in half and I have seen some welded on extensions that were done pretty poorly. and it's very important that the pick-up is sitting at the right depth inside the sump. also they hang quite low, it shouldn't be a problem, but if for instance you spun off the track backawards over a ripple strip (happend to me!) it would be in danger of getting collected. plus the extra capacity adds a lot of $$ to your oil change if you are using oil like motul chrono (which you should be).

so I reckon unless you really need extra capacity, just use the tomei baffles.

...also they hang quite low, it shouldn't be a problem, but if for instance you spun off the track backawards over a ripple strip (happend to me!) it would be in danger of getting collected.....

That's what worries me about the extensions.

well...i've had both on my race car and have seen some minor surge using the tomei style baffles - never had any sign of trouble with the trust extended sump.

but keep in mind this is on excellent tyres with great traction, right on the limit - I don't think most cars would see any difference.

re clearance I've run the extended sump on plenty of tracks including some offs and not hit it......but thats not to say it could never happen - the trust sump definately hangs lower than the subframe

well...i've had both on my race car and have seen some minor surge using the tomei style baffles - never had any sign of trouble with the trust extended sump.

but keep in mind this is on excellent tyres with great traction, right on the limit - I don't think most cars would see any difference.

re clearance I've run the extended sump on plenty of tracks including some offs and not hit it......but thats not to say it could never happen - the trust sump definately hangs lower than the subframe

Thanks for that, I do intend to run the car at the track so good to hear from someone who has tried both in those conditions

use the hi octane exchange sump. way better than a puny 800ml extra. ive seen bearings spin on gtrs wityh the extension. simply not enough oil.

the sump i made holds around 8.5 litres to the high mark on the stick. no surge at all as yat.

I'd say that has more to do with the build and not overfilling than not enough in an extended sump.

well I'm convinced. both dave and duncan I know have thought about this a lot. so I'd go with their idea. especially if you are using a nismo oil pump (not nissan N1, but actual nismo pump) as they flow a fair bit more oil than a stock pump at any given pressure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...