Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Recently my car had started playing up. After seeing that the problem had nothing too do

with the coils, i narrowed it down that cylinder 5 was the one playing up.

After doing a compression test it read too be under 50 which meant either the valve was playing up

or a piston ring had broke.

After i checked my oil i noticed there was non left in there! So i filled around 3 and a half litres at my

cousins place then drove it home. In the morning i checked the oil, and there was no oil left!

So this means that defiently a piston ring is broken?

If so does anyone know anyone or anywhere that supplies a piston ring kit for Rb25det, also with the

conrod bearings and sump gaskit etc.

Thank you!

Samir

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179976-cylinder-5-no-compression/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Recently my car had started playing up. After seeing that the problem had nothing too do

with the coils, i narrowed it down that cylinder 5 was the one playing up.

After doing a compression test it read too be under 50 which meant either the valve was playing up

or a piston ring had broke.

After i checked my oil i noticed there was non left in there! So i filled around 3 and a half litres at my

cousins place then drove it home. In the morning i checked the oil, and there was no oil left!

So this means that defiently a piston ring is broken?

If so does anyone know anyone or anywhere that supplies a piston ring kit for Rb25det, also with the

conrod bearings and sump gaskit etc.

Thank you!

Samir

ouch that doesnt sounds good, but seriosuly something like oil should be checked (the level) atleast once a week.

Was there no oil whats so ever or it just didnt register on the dip stick. Where you still getting oil pressure?

Unless you have a massive oil leak (and if you lost 3.5L in a drive home just by it dropping oil would be EVERYWHERE), its burning or you have massive piston blowby and it filling up your cooler aswell. Is it blowing a shit load of smoke? Any Knocking noises?

I'd say you have either melted/chipped a piston or broken a ring which case your more than likely need new pistons let alone just rings. You probably have damaged your bore aswell and are most likely up for a rebore or hone at the very least.

So pretty much its full rebuild time, ie new pistons, rings, big end and main bearings etc etc (and if you have been driving around with no oil you might have damaged the crank aswell), or get a 2nd rb and drop it in and hope for the best.

Oh man hehe :(

There is still oil pressure, yeah it didn't show on the dipstick.

There is no oil leaking on the ground anywhere

and when i drive no smoke comes out unless i push it a little bit :)

Also no knocking noises.

I hope it's only the rings!

Only on cylinder 5 there is a lack of compression

every other cylinder is fine

Thanks

Samir

Edited by Taxi33
Oh man hehe :P

There is still oil pressure, yeah it didn't show on the dipstick.

There is no oil leaking on the ground anywhere

and when i drive no smoke comes out unless i push it a little bit :(

Also no knocking noises.

I hope it's only the rings!

Only on cylinder 5 there is a lack of compression

every other cylinder is fine

Thanks

Samir

yeah i hope for you its only rings, but regardless i would be giving it a full rebuild while it was out, especially now you know that it had bugger all oil in it. I dont know how hard it would be for you but try and take the intake pipe off that goes to the turbo and see how much oil is in there, your rocker cover ventilation goes to your intake pipe so if there is excessive piston blowby from a busted piston you would expect oil to be filling up in your intake. If you have an oil catch can, you probably would see that its filling up aswell

No idea where all the oil went,

Defiantly not on the ground though when i accelerated a bit hard

smoke came up through the gearbox and white smoke came out

of the exhaust :P this is before i knew it was cylinder 5 playing up

Thanks

Samir

Are you sure you filled the oil into the engine and not the radiator?!?!? cause if it was gone in such a short trip, it wouldve had to be blowing shitload of smoke, and or a big hole in ur sump. also, just incase, check ur intercooler, for oil. you might find it full with oil.

its going to be a bitch to take the piston out from underneath unless you take the gearbox off, take the main crank seal housing, oil pump, oil squirters etc etc and drop the crank.

it will probably be easier to take the head off and just replace the rings and slap it back together if you want to do it on the cheap, but you might as well do the main and big end bearings while its all stripped (it'll only cost you around $140 extra for ACL bearings if you're doing it yourself).

you'll need to check the clearances of the bearings and the bores too, and figure out why only #5 lost compression.

its going to be a bitch to take the piston out from underneath unless you take the gearbox off, take the main crank seal housing, oil pump, oil squirters etc etc and drop the crank.

it will probably be easier to take the head off and just replace the rings and slap it back together if you want to do it on the cheap, but you might as well do the main and big end bearings while its all stripped (it'll only cost you around $140 extra for ACL bearings if you're doing it yourself).

you'll need to check the clearances of the bearings and the bores too, and figure out why only #5 lost compression.

Yeah true,

Though im not too sure if the piston will still be the same.

People are saying that it could be damaged like.. a hole init

or melted so yeah ;)

I think it'll have too be a full rebuild.

Yeah will be doing it all myself, well with my brother/cousin and dad helping me

because they all have a good amount of mechanical knowledge between them.

Going too take it too my brothers work on saturday (hpf) hopefully they'll know whats

up with it and what will need too be done.

Yes.. I'm sure i filled the oil in the correct place. Before i started driving it read full on the dipstick.

The next morning it read empty :(

Thanks

Samir

yeah dude, a melted piston is nasty as hell. look at the pic on my avatar. that was after a nasty little boost spike at WSID. i ran a 14.0 on that run though.

ive got some rb25 pistons here if you're after some.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...