Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i wouldn't stress too much, just spray the crap out of it.

I used brake cleaner.

Someone suggested to use carby cleaner, it is more or less the same as brake cleaner but it has stuff to dissolve grease/oil as well. Though someone told me recently _not_ to use it because it leaves a residue.

I'd play it safe and use brake cleaner. It doesn't matter which direction you spray it from.

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Don't you know it... and I was getting ready for a real battle to work out what it was.

That said, I'm still gonna be cautious for the next few days, and see if I can get it to stall. I had a bit of a shock when I put everything back together and the car started idling from 1000-2000rpm. I thought 'great, now I've really fixed it.' Turned out I hadn't plugged the AFM plug all the way in. Plugged it in and hey presto!

i used a combination of metho and kero and it cleans the oily film off the afm as soon as it comes into contact with it. being a spirit, it also evaporates and doesnt leave a residue

plus, you can buy it cheap at hardware stores :P

was getting over 600km to a tank in my former GTS-T :)

  • 6 months later...

Well i used it anyway, as i figured even if it left a residue then id be able to get it off using carby cleaner anyway. Seemed to make the car a little bit more smoother to drive, but im not sure whether the hesitation i have been getting is gone or not. Made sure i blew out as much of the WD40 as i could with an air gun. Will have to see on whether this has owrked or whether it was my o2 sensor!

Cheers, David

Edited by R32Abuser

Nah not overly...a little tho...What happens is ill be on like maybe cruising throttle position whilst accelerating softly to 60 and in second or or third it all of a sudden cuts out and starts rolling as if its going to stop...2 seconds later...it jerks and fires up again and all is sweet. I must say tho, it does feel even when cruising that the engine is under more load than it should or used to feel like....

AANY ideas? Im leaning towards the the o2 sensor..but anyone had similar troubles with different outcome?

Hi mate. I'd place money on it being the AFM, but not the element/hot wire but the plug/connector. I had the same problem with one of my AFMs. The joins inside the plug go dry, causing the resistance to go sky-high (to infinity), which results in the voltage dropping off to zero. The ECU doesn't know what to do and you end up with the rough running for a few seconds until it jiggles around and you have a voltage across the plug again.

You can test for it with a Consult cable.

You can fix it by either replacing the AFM (but hard to check which one it is without a Consult cable) or by desoldering and resoldering the joins. The job isn't actually that hard, provided you have a desoldering tool. I'll chase the DIY and post it here.

Mark

i used a combination of metho and kero and it cleans the oily film off the afm as soon as it comes into contact with it. being a spirit, it also evaporates and doesnt leave a residue

How'd you do that? Spray bottle with a 50/50 mix of kero and metho?

600km to a tank sounds nice... I managed 8.75L/100km at the pump last time and my AFM hasn't been cleaned in a long time. If I could push it a little further I'd be a very happy man :woot:

  • 3 months later...

Good son of rajab! WD40!? Please don't use WD40. I would personally avoid contact cleaner. Brake cleaner is designed to evapourate completley. Id spray a plate with it, let it dry and eat off of it :happy:

If your AFM's hellah visually dirty, carby / throttle body would be best, as its unbelievably powerful at removing carbon deposits, but i would then use brake cleaner to wash it off. Shake the unit gently so most of it spits out, then place in warm spot (vertically on hot cam cover works well) to dry quickly.

I would still be nervous using metho/kero.

Rem, what ever you use once will work and prolly not hurt, but i cant imagine continual use of some of these options would be healthy... reason not to use oiled foam filters ha. Just my opinion.

my 2 cents

-M

Well id personally use contact cleaner to clean electronics .. Otherwise I would use 100% isopropyl also drys instantly and designed for electronics...

now .. does anyone suggest a reset of the r34 ecu or not?

Just buy electrical contact cleaner, do it right first time. I had a pretty dirty/oily AFM when I first got the car, the electrical contact cleaner got rid of it in a flash, and dries within a few seconds.

I sprayed it all around the inside of the tube too, cause it was also dirty/slightly oily, ran my finger around the inside after spraying, totally clean :)

Fixxxer :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...