Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im cleaning out my oil and would like to know how to remove the oil filter from the RB26 looks really hard, anybody got some ideas or tips they can give me?

mate its a bitch i tried it from under neath on a hoist but i could not get in and the top is a little easier i had to get a mate with small forearms to squese in there to get it off if that helps at all ;)

The rb26 oil filter is just like all those other rb components - ok if you have small to medium sized hands. Unlike a holden or ford fangadore - which haev miles of space, these skylines are tight.

Just make sure that car is cold - its impossible if you've just driven it because you'll keep burning yourself. Keep trying. you'll get more courage, and you'll stick your hand further and further in. Eventually, you'll work out a good way of how to get it.

I've got a GTS-4 and it's a hard job to change the oil filter too. I think the only way of getting it out is to reach in and twist it out. I guess you can always get an oil relocator kit. That's after you get this filter out ;)

I don't think the GTS-4 and GTR boys/girls can change the filter from below because of the front axle and diff? I don't know, I've just changed it from the top and it doesn't look like you can change it from below. ;)

When I changed my oil this is the wrench that I used.

http://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-Universa...9752&sr=8-2

The jaws rotate as you turn the ratchet, which tightened down on the filter and squeezes it tightly.

I had to put it on by hand, then get a ratchet down there, I just cracked it to get it loosened then I removed by hand.

Be careful though, because there is both a hose that is kinda in the way and a wire for a sensor down there.

Don't get them caught in the jaws which might tear/pop them.

THAT WOULD SUCK!

Its still a P.T.A. to get to, but its a lot better then trying to dislocate both your arm to reach and your head to see what you need to see to be able to work on it.

Oh and few cold ones do not hurt matters either.

Edited by i4dat

LOL big screw driver and a hammer, drive the screw driver through the oil filter and then you have enough leverage to at least unseat it. Then you can twist it with your hands.

Messy though!!

LOL big screw driver and a hammer, drive the screw driver through the oil filter and then you have enough leverage to at least unseat it. Then you can twist it with your hands.

Messy though!!

That's pretty dangerous. I remember punching a screw driver through my filter and it created really sharp edges on both sides of the filter. Once you put a screw driver through the filter, you need to keep using the screw driver to take the filter off.

Just my experience.

Yer but you have the added bonus that once you have punch a hole through it you just have to change it LOL.

After i broke the seal the filter spanner worked a charm. Then removed Hicas no problem now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...