Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Will give that ago. Yer will do. How think Should a 32 after market rotor be? I ask as was told if its not the right size might cause problems with the pistons working right

A 32 GTR rotor is 32mm; min thickness would be around 30mm.

Rotor width won't stop the calipers from working, there is more variation in piston extension with worn pads (6mm approx) as compared with new pads.

The pistons simply push out further to make contact with the rotor. You can run the pads down to the backing plates, on a min thickness rotor; and still keep the pistons captive.

Good suggestions from 3Katz, and normally they are quite easy to bleed.

Did you push the pistons all the way back into the caliper to remove as much air/fluid from the calipers before starting?

Obviously the bleed nipples are at the top on both sides?

Silly question, but I've seen people fit Sumitomo's upside down, then go mad trying to bleed a caliper that will always be full of air.

Once 1 piston pops out, compressed air won't work. I found it was necessary to lever the pistons out gently with a pair of levers in the dust boot groove.

If you protect the caliper and pistons well, and the shafts of whatever levers you use; there is nothing wrong with doing this.

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Did you push the pistons all the way back into the caliper to remove as much air/fluid from the calipers before starting?

Obviously the bleed nipples are at the top on both sides?

Silly question, but I've seen people fit Sumitomo's upside down, then go mad trying to bleed a caliper that will always be full of air.

Once 1 piston pops out, compressed air won't work. I found it was necessary to lever the pistons out gently with a pair of levers in the dust boot groove.

If you protect the caliper and pistons well, and the shafts of whatever levers you use; there is nothing wrong with doing this.

Yes, good point once one piston pops out you have to get a little creative, I like to reinstall the removed piston just past the seal and then chock it up with wood, old pads, rag and G clamps - whatever you can fit in there and keep going in that manner untill all pistons are removed. Once the last piston has popped they should be easy to grab hold of and pull out, but as Daleo said if you're fortunate enough to have dust seal grooves to get a lever in then that would be perfectly fine and possibly much easier. Good point with the upside down caliper too! And obviously you must bleed both sides of an opposed piston caliper. Hope it doesn't sound like telling you to suck eggs but it sounds as though you're getting info that's not quite right from somewhere and it can't hurt to have too much help! Good luck, let us know how you go.

Yes, good point once one piston pops out you have to get a little creative, I like to reinstall the removed piston just past the seal and then chock it up with wood, old pads, rag and G clamps - whatever you can fit in there and keep going in that manner untill all pistons are removed. Once the last piston has popped they should be easy to grab hold of and pull out, but as Daleo said if you're fortunate enough to have dust seal grooves to get a lever in then that would be perfectly fine and possibly much easier. Good point with the upside down caliper too! And obviously you must bleed both sides of an opposed piston caliper. Hope it doesn't sound like telling you to suck eggs but it sounds as though you're getting info that's not quite right from somewhere and it can't hurt to have too much help! Good luck, let us know how you go.

These actually only have the one bleed point, but the internal porting ensure the air from both sides rises to the bleed point.

Best of luck, it's easy to miss the simple things sometimes, and the brake "specialist" doesn't sound like much help either...

  • 2 years later...

Hey i've got a s1 and i'm keen to do the r33 upgrade. I have the stock 16inch rims and i was wondering if this upgrade will fit behind em.

Cheers

Soz i just found out the answer formyself. Google.

Edited by jko_one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 💪🏼 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 🥲 But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
×
×
  • Create New...