Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In my R33 skyline the clutch in my fan has had it.

I was thinking instead of replacing the standard fan i should just throw in a thermo electric fan

was thinking one 14" fan

or should i have 2 smaller ones?

any advice would be nice

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180675-installing-a-thermo-electric-fan/
Share on other sites

i dunno if this is the case with the skyline motors but in the old holden motors (253ci,308ci) disabling your engine fan and using thermos can increase hp (less drag, more efficiant)... slightly

anyway... are you putting one/them in front of your radiator? or infront of your engine?

Dont install two small ones unless you use the EF/EL setup that comes with the shroud. Other than that a single 16" fits the factory shroud and will flow as much if not more than the factory crank fan.

Theres a DIY that gives the part number for the radiator sensor you'll need as well if you chose not to use a fan controller.

  • Thanks 1
i dunno if this is the case with the skyline motors but in the old holden motors (253ci,308ci) disabling your engine fan and using thermos can increase hp (less drag, more efficiant)... slightly

anyway... are you putting one/them in front of your radiator? or infront of your engine?

infront of the engine

one 14" would fit nicely

Dont install two small ones unless you use the EF/EL setup that comes with the shroud. Other than that a single 16" fits the factory shroud and will flow as much if not more than the factory crank fan.

Theres a DIY that gives the part number for the radiator sensor you'll need as well if you chose not to use a fan controller.

Sorry new here cant find DIY on it

In my R33 skyline the clutch in my fan has had it.

I was thinking instead of replacing the standard fan i should just throw in a thermo electric fan

was thinking one 14" fan

or should i have 2 smaller ones?

any advice would be nice

thanks

G`day all if you have a look at maxima with v6 front wheel drive look`s like they will drop in not much to do all gen part`s switches & all ?????,i will be putting these in my s2 stagea.if you all so look at tran`s cooler ,powersteering cooler if you need them ?????,good luck chuckie.

I'm using a Craig Davies 16" drag racing fan flows 3800CFM with a 90C Degree thermoswitch

cost me $280 for the fan and switch

All mounted on a 55mm thick 180SX radiator with custom top pipe, works fine :) keeps the temps down, I even drove my car without the fan wired up, round 30 minutes and it never hit over 1/2 way on the temp chart :S

Oh and it does have a bit more go :) it's not dragging like it used to, but that's because I stripped the aircon as well i thinK :)

total gain from the fan would be in the area of round 5hp i think

Edited by skybarge
  • 2 weeks later...
Other than that a single 16" fits the factory shroud and will flow as much if not more than the factory crank fan.

You might want to check into this a little more, i did the same conversion on my old rx7 and the cooling of the thermo was shyte (was a 16" davies craig) , would not do any where near as good as the clutch fan and have since heard many stories about many different cars that are driven hard and the thermo's dont work anywhere near as good as the factory clutch fan, i had my temp controller turned up full and if i drove normally or babied it it would sit at normal temp, as soon as i started to give it some it would shoot up, i would only need to do the equivalent of a 1/4 mile run and the temp would be up.

the best solution is a FLEX-A-LITE dual system part number 220 these pull 2500cfm (davies craig seem to rate their fans way off!! as twin davies fans could not keep our car even remotely cool) the 220 keeps our drift car ice cold, i run a pivot fan controller but am working on a cheaper alternative.

The fans are the same size as the skyline radiator and have a rubber seal that seals against the rad surface.

110-210-Low-Profile.jpg

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/low-p...e-electric.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...