Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am interested in a high flow of an Rb25 turbo, as long as there is not too much involved with getting the lines altered.

Is there any people in for definate yet, or is it still all in the process at the moment?

Thanks,

Abu

Ok people, ive spoken to John again and this is the go. With the JOURNAL bearing high flow for $1100, you need to provide John with your turbo and the actuator for it to be highflowed. You dont need to provide the LINES as you can use your stock lines. Now if anybody wants a ball bearing these will be $1550, but five people are needed to purcahse this. With the ball bearing, you need to provide the lines as John will modify them. Otherwise you can do it yourself. Everything else, as in bolts, washers will be provided to bolt back on to your turbo. There is not a lot of mucking around.

Heres all the information you guys need. So is anyone in?

SoFly and Munkey: $1550 for ball bearings on the condition that we get five. You need to provide your oil and water lines to be modified though.

Abu: If you get a journal bearning, all you need is the turbo (with actuator) as the lines do not need to be modified (turbo is only oil cooled anyway). If you want ball bearning, you need to supply the lines, and they will be modified as part of the cost

Cheers

Great to see you guys dealing with Precision Turbo's again! My GB sparked approx 40 high flows all with excellent results!

Good luck to all

Regards,

Sarkis

I installed one of Johns BB R33/VG30 highflows on the weekend.And honestly cant wipe the smile off my face.

The car will be tuned Monday week so ive just been driving around off boost and occasionally creeping into the 2psi range.Very torquey an boost starts at about 2000rpm.Had to go to Pirtek to get some braided line made up,but its DEFINATLEY worth the effort.

With the cams,555s and Z32 that will be installed next week with the tune i will probably hit 270rwkw at 1.2bar.

If you can stretch your budget i would seriously consider the BB option!

There was a delay at UAS so i wont get my car back till Wednesday night.

Suspense is killing me!

What i know so far is that the boost will be set on high at 16psi and low at 10psi.

Should a safe and solid tune.Im hoping for 260rwkw.

Hey guys.

I know not everyone has the priveledge of being able to get a turbo at wholesale price, but I recommend making friends with someone that works at Repco, cos I can get a Garrett GT30RS Twin BB for approx $1300 - $1400 through a friend. I dunno, it seems like a lot of money for a journal bearing turbo. Im currently running a journal bearing unit with VG30 housing and im not happy with the amount of lag, but I only payed $800.

Im not trying to be a dick, just throwing some other ideas into the mix. Even at RRP I reckon a new twin BB unit would be worth the extra few hundred.

Croydon are doing some really good prices: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=169697

Scott

Edited by datto260Z
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...