Jump to content
SAU Community

Lcct Track Day Symmonds Planes 26/08/07


Recommended Posts

Was a good day. I got down to a 1:01.9, the new tyres only dropped 1 sec off my best time (1:02.94), but i was conistently under it all day. The marshels on the hairpin talked to me at the end of the day, and said they couldn't believe how late i could brake (always nice to hear). The black hats on my DBA 5000 series are almost white now, so i must of given them a hard time.

Poor Paul had to go home early (R33 GT-R) cause his catch can blew oil all over the engine bay and windscreen. Apparently if you run a return to the sump, you have to put a 1 way valve in to stop the pressure in the sump blowing all the oil out.

Sav Man,

was that you in the black/dark grey R32 GTR?

Awesome! I didn't realise you were that quick! I remember timing you a while back and you were doing 7's I think. Good to see you improve by that much!

new turbos, brakes, and tyres will help with that :3some: , and better skillz helps too.

Sav Man,

was that you in the black/dark grey R32 GTR?

Yep that was me

311 rwkw, Porsche 6 pot monoblocks with racing pagit pads and sockers rears with hawk blue's.

I don't want to run my car in the TSS, and i use it heaps on the road, and don't have a cage. But i'm going to see if dad will let me use the Targa car (R33 GT-R), as that's got the cage, and better suspention....

new turbos, brakes, and tyres will help with that :P , and better skillz helps too.

Yep that was me

i think you picked up thoes skills from driving my car. bahahaha :laughing-smiley-014: your car is just so much easier.

you should try out the bilstines out of the front of my car. they are out of a gtr. made heaps of difference in my cars ride in the front. i now also have sone front king springs if you dont like the sound of pedders.

Was a good day. I got down to a 1:01.9, the new tyres only dropped 1 sec off my best time (1:02.94), but i was conistently under it all day. The marshels on the hairpin talked to me at the end of the day, and said they couldn't believe how late i could brake (always nice to hear). The black hats on my DBA 5000 series are almost white now, so i must of given them a hard time.

Poor Paul had to go home early (R33 GT-R) cause his catch can blew oil all over the engine bay and windscreen. Apparently if you run a return to the sump, you have to put a 1 way valve in to stop the pressure in the sump blowing all the oil out.

Congrats on the time Ben :(.

Big brakes + power at Symmons certainly works :P. Anymore super sprints or club days at Symmons before the end of the year? Wouldnt mind trying to blow up the SR down the back straight :nyaanyaa: wont die at Baskerville.

Brendan Spurr of BGS Fabrication did the cage, it's a full weld in. i guess the weight did hold it back a bit. the car is completly stripped out but i guess it's suprising how much steel goes into the cage.

  • 2 weeks later...

i have a full bolt in steel cage and it weighs about 60kg. so it would slow you down a bit. ive thought about takin mine out just to see what the difference in lap times would be. just so you have an idea, my best time at symmons is 1.05.6 with a fairly stock car, apart from the the FMIC, 3'' exhuast, race tyres, and its debatable as to what it weighs as ive pull things out but it prob still weighs the standard weight with the cage, and 1.02.7 at baskerville.

those times should drop now i have a boost control, but its hard to say by how much. if i can knock a second off at each track ill be happy. particually at basky as it will put me right at the pointy end of the field.

Edited by johnGTS-t
Thats a pretty decent time. what kind of power are you running out of the RB20? and what kind of speeds are you getting down the back straight?

i dont know what power, havnet touched the motor, its standard with about 160,000 on the clock. with the mods i have i would assume its upped the power a bit from standard.

top speed down the striaght is about 200kph (almost 180 on the top straight) and 180 at basky. i should stop looking at the speed really, im starting to scare myself LOL.

ive fitted braided brake hoses expecting the brake pedal to be firmer but its softer than it was. dont know whats going on there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...