Jump to content
SAU Community

Stageas In Carparks

tmg

By tmg,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

tmg Enthusiast

tmg

Posted
Posted

I read the specs on the stagea a while back as I am havin a good think about getting one someday, and wondered what they perform like in the everyday carpark scinario. Turning circle in the specs = 5.3 metres, and that's huge! Can you get a steering rack that makes the turning radius smaller?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181049-stageas-in-carparks/
Share on other sites
MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

Huge? are you used to driving a barina or something?

Turning circle is hardly a factor i'd decide whether a car is good or not. I mean, I have a skyline - same gear. I have never found it a PROBLEM. e.g. I don't go oh shit, ran out of steering lock when trying to park...

In answer to your question, yes you can

tmg Enthusiast

tmg

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Barina - no. Ford Laser - yes. it has...or should I say - had, a nice small turning circle. Thanks for answering the question too. I don't rate it steering as a major factor, but thought i'd throw the questions out there.

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

Well, as a direct comparison to my last car (eb falcon) I think the stag parked beautifully. Before you compare it to a laser, you may want to compare the wheelbase and interior space too.....

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

The Stagea has a pretty decent turning circle considering the fact that there are drive-shafts running to the front wheels too (unless you go for a RWD version). I came from a Corolla, and my old man still has a 2003 Camry. The turning circle on the Corolla was great (obviously, because it was a small car), but the Camry's turning circle is worse than my car's...

One thing with the Stagea is the rear overhang, but what's good is that the rear window is almost vertical, so it's pretty easy to judge how much room you have behind you if you reverse park into a spot. It's also good because it makes the load area much more useful, compared to a hatchback or a wagon with a steeply-sloping rear window area.

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
Posted

FFS you buy a car and you are worried about the tunring circle? Forgive me for saying this but how long have you had your license for?

In a car thats 4wd the turning circle is going to be always a large one. It doesnt mattes wheter is a sedan or suv. Why? Like they say theres Cv joints in the front wheels that drives it. Thats the factor that limiting the turning circle. Get it?

Driving skills is all you need to drive in a car park. One advise when driving such a long vehicle always go for a rear entry :P:D . Which means rverse in instead of parking head in first try it.

Xmetal Mentor

Xmetal

Posted
Posted

Rather than start a new topic i'm going to follow on with a similar question:

How's the reverse parking go with the Stagea? I'm coming from a Subaru Liberty Sedan and it's easy enough to park in tight spaces - I"m guessing Stag's aren't too bad in that respect?

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted
Rather than start a new topic i'm going to follow on with a similar question:

How's the reverse parking go with the Stagea? I'm coming from a Subaru Liberty Sedan and it's easy enough to park in tight spaces - I"m guessing Stag's aren't too bad in that respect?

Like I mentioned above, Ian, having a good-sized rear window and an almost vertical tailgate helps heaps. You know that if there's roughly 2ft to the rear window from a wall, that roughly half of that should be left for the bumper. Of course, if you're gonna open the tailgate later to get the shopping in or whatever, don't forget to leave more room.

rb26stagea Grand Master

rb26stagea

Posted
Posted

I find it enormously better than my 70 series Supra in carparks, for the simple fact that the Supra's doors are about 3 km long, and you had to take at least 6 months of yoga before even contemplating using anything but the aerotop for ingress/egress. Sure, the turning circle is a little wider than a Lotus Elise, but it's a Large car!

AlexCim Grand Master

AlexCim

Posted
Posted

Ive never had an issue in a carpark and ive had to park in some stupid stupid spots.

On another note, want more lock, get aftermarket tie rod ends and adjust them for more lock, then a wheel alignment to adjust toe.

Otherwise, remove the rod ends and insert some spacers, aka washers, when screwing the rod end back in. This will do the same thing but in a less safe more borro drifter kinda way....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...