Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i said to them i had safc..

i think they overpriced on me..

how long does it usally take to tune SAFC?

1 hr with an expereinced tuner, maybe less for hitman.

Not too much to change.

Okay just spoke to Matt(Hitman). And he quoted $250 fora safc2, and profec2 , both fit and tuned which I reckon is wayy more cheaper than some of the other quotes Ive had so far. So HITMAN! it is then.

That's fregan awesome by anyones standards !

Don't forget to post the results :(

Okay just spoke to Matt(Hitman). And he quoted $250 fora safc2, and profec2 , both fit and tuned which I reckon is wayy more cheaper than some of the other quotes Ive had so far. So HITMAN! it is then.

wow i gotta call him stright away!!

did you tell him youve got the number from SAU??

I did mention that I got his number from SAU. Well i mentioned that to JEM as well who didnt seem to give 2 hoots about it. Anyways Hitman sounded a lot more pleasant and 'customer satisfactory'.. if there is anything like that.

i gave him a call and he quote me 250 for SAFC 1 and 50 for manual boost controller which is turbotech.

why did i get more that them? F!@#$K anyway its way cheaper than ive been quoted so far!

Probably because the installation is the easy part for both controllers.

then adjusting...

the electronic ones to adjust, you press buttons or turn dials to get the desired boost you want.

most have a display on them that shows you what you are setting it to.

the turbo tech is just a knob.

you turn it, do a run and see what boost it makes, then turn it some more and dyno again.. repeat until you have the desired boost level..

so it takes a few goes to get it "adjusted" the the setting you want.

that's why you got charged $50 extra.

Probably because the installation is the easy part for both controllers.

then adjusting...

the electronic ones to adjust, you press buttons or turn dials to get the desired boost you want.

most have a display on them that shows you what you are setting it to.

the turbo tech is just a knob.

you turn it, do a run and see what boost it makes, then turn it some more and dyno again.. repeat until you have the desired boost level..

so it takes a few goes to get it "adjusted" the the setting you want.

that's why you got charged $50 extra.

yes that makes sense

but 300 is still so~~~ cheap!!! very good!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...