Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just put a HICAS lock bar in and about to lift the car to 350mm front 340 rear and get a wheel alignment done.

The suspension shop is suggesting 4mm toe in on the rear and 2mm toe in on the front, as opposed to Gary's spec of 2mm rear and 0mm front.

I haven't put any of the SK groupbuy kit in so I don't have adjustable castor/camber etc.

The differences are bugger all, but can anyone recommend which setting - or what differences these changes would make to turn in etc?

I have a track day next week and want to get the car sorted - but it's mostly street driven.

thanks Salad - I would have thought that the extra toe-in (2mm front and 2mm rear) suggested by the shop would have produced more wear than SK settings, but been better behaviour (especially without the caster SK suggests, ie extra toe in on the front promotes self centering) but I don't know enough about the suspension side.

i got into an argument with the guy at the tyre shop, ended with me saying "look mate there are people out there smarter than you how about you just do what i want" hahah

i tried mine at zero front zero rear, ive since changed to 1mm out each side at the front (or was it two :)) and it turns alot better :)

ok.. until gary comes in, heres what worked for me. but also playing with alignment settings to get you car to handle is not the right way to go about starting a good set up.

0 on the front and 0 on the rear will give neutral handling on a set up car. you need to start here and find out what your car is doing. understeering,oversteering,pushing etc etc.

the rear is much les sensative to toe. as all the bushes and shit move around and its al over the shop all the time when your up it..

as far as the front goes. with out changing springs and swaybars and bump steer etc etc to make it neutral. if it understeers you need to toe out. if it over steers you need to toe it to 0 and toe the rear in.

if it turns in well but then pushes you need to reduce the rear grip by toeing it in.

if it is unstable and unpredictable you probably have to much caster. you never want a toe in on the front. and try to get away with the smalest caster you can. usually its happy at around 7 positive.

basicly you can go past the pont of where adding toe on the front stops working. some race cars use up to 8mm each side!!! because they cant or wont play with the suspension settings. but if you ask me thats just retarded.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...