Jump to content
SAU Community

Your Audio Install *pictures+specs*


fadinmist
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Starting a thread of posting your car's Audio Install's.. Show us your specs and your pictures

Use the template bellow.. And Insert your details and photos.

Have Fun :thumbsup:

 [i]Specs:[/i]

[b]Headunit:[/b]
[b]Front:[/b]
[b]Amp:[/b]
[b]6x9:[/b]
[b]Sub Amp:[/b]
[b]Sub:[/b]
[b]Capacitor:[/b]
[b]Wiring:[/b]


[i]Car:[/i]

[b]Make:[/b]
[b]Model:[/b]
[b]Year:[/b]


[i]Pictures:[/i] 

<---Insert Here--->

Edited by fadinmist
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i'll start :thumbsup:

Specs:

Headunit: Pioneer DVD Touch-Screen

Front: MTX TDX-6502

Amp: MTX Thunder 3404

6x9: MTX TDX 6903

Sub Amp: MTX Thunder 3401

Sub: MTX Thunder 7500

Capacitor: None

Wiring: 4Ga Powers - 12GA Speaker Wire - 3 x Audioline RCAS

Car:

Make: Nissan

Model: Skyline R32

Year: 1993

Pictures:

post-40636-1187513613_thumb.jpg

post-40636-1187513624_thumb.jpg

post-40636-1187513645_thumb.jpg

Edited by fadinmist
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Specs:

Headunit: Kenwood DDX6019

Front: Earthquake fc6.2 (600watt)

Amp: Earthquake ph2200.4 (4x175WRMS 4Ohm)

6x9: Earthquake EQ-693r (800watt)

Sub Amp: Earthquake PH5000d (5000 watt)

Sub: 2x Audiopipe 1000 WRMS DVC candy subs

Capacitor: 25 Farad power accoustic + 6 Farad power accoustic

Wiring: 1x run 0awg to 25 farad cap feeding monoblock, 1x run of 4awg to 6 farad cap feeding 4 channel

Car:

Make: Suzuki

Model: Swift Gti

Year: 1995

Pictures:

post-5992-1187517177_thumb.jpg

post-5992-1187517256_thumb.jpg

post-5992-1187517381_thumb.jpg

post-5992-1187517495_thumb.jpg

post-5992-1187517551_thumb.jpg

Edited by nemz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Specs:

Headunit: Kenwood DDX6019

Front: Earthquake fc6.2 (600watt)

Amp: Earthquake ph2200.4 (4x175WRMS 4Ohm)

6x9: Earthquake EQ-693r (800watt)

Sub Amp: Earthquake PH5000d (5000 watt)

Sub: 2x Audiopipe 1000 WRMS DVC candy subs

Capacitor: 25 Farad power accoustic + 6 Farad power accoustic

Wiring: 1x run 0awg to 25 farad cap feeding monoblock, 1x run of 4awg to 6 farad cap feeding 4 channel

Car:

Make: Suzuki

Model: Swift Gti

Year: 1995

Pictures:

Hahah NEMZ man, that car is going to flip once the bass hits :)

Nice install but, must sounds mint.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Specs:

Headunit: Clarion DXZ766MP

Front: Alpine DDLinear splits

Amp: Alpine PDX-4150 digital amp

Rear: Alpine DDLinear's

Sub Amp: Alpine PDX-11000 digital amp

Sub: 2 x 12" Alpine Type R

Capacitor: 1 farad

Wiring: lots :thumbsup:

Car:

Make: Nissan

Model: Skyline R33

Year: 1994

Pictures:

Custom Boot:

post-15008-1187692025_thumb.jpg post-15008-1187692072_thumb.jpg post-15008-1187692109_thumb.jpg

Custom Parcel Shelf:

post-15008-1187692165_thumb.jpg post-15008-1187692260_thumb.jpg

Tweeter Position:

post-15008-1187692305_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Specs:

Headunit: Alpine IVA-D310E

Front stage: Boston Acoustic Pro60

Powered by: Audison LRx 2.5 amp

Sub: ID Max 12 Dual 2Ohm

Powered by: Audison LRx1.4 amp

Wiring: 0/4Ga + Stinger

Sound deadening: lotsa Dynamat

Built & tuned for SQ but it still pumps out some nice SPL :thumbsup:

Pictures:

post-25499-1187685828_thumb.jpg post-25499-1187685835_thumb.jpg post-25499-1187686200_thumb.jpg

Edited by G_Force
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Specs:

Headunit: JVC DVD Unit and 7" VGA Touchscreen Moulded into the dash Air con controls moved to where the ashtray used to be

Front: Haha still stock

Amp: Running off the deck

6x9: stock rears

Sub Amp: 600wrms alpine

Sub: 2x 12" Alpine type S

Capacitor: no need they do more harm that good

Wiring: 2 Gauge to the amp rest for now is stock

Car:

Make: Nissan

Model: R32 Skyline

Year: 1990

Pictures: Still to come car is in the shop at the moment

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Specs:

Headunit: Carputer, interface via Xenarc 7" touch screen

Front: Rainbow SLC265Kicks

Amp: TruTechnology 4ch

Sub: Rainbow 12" Amboss

Sound Deadening: Dynamat extreme to inside and outside doors skins, Dynaxorb mats

Car:

Make: R33 GTS-T Series II

Year: 1996

Pictures:

17082007486xl0.jpg

Edited by Trav33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Specs:

Headunit: Carputer, interface via Xenarc 7" touch screen

Front: Rainbow SLC265Kicks

Amp: TruTechnology 4ch

Sub: Rainbow 12" Amboss

Sound Deadening: Dynamat extreme to inside and outside doors skins, Dynaxorb mats

Car:

Make: R33 GTS-T Series II

Year: 1996

Rainbows & Tru Tech... must sound sweeeetttt....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
is this worthy?

That's not bad, nice install, pity about the gear though :spank:

Maybe sell the gear, get a nice 1000watt RMS amp and a IDQ12 :P for some real kick arse sound :rofl:

Also lose the farrad capacitor on small systems like that they don't do much at all to be honest

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Centre-offset muffler under the floor, same as stock. Just....3.5". The change from straight pipe there to centre-offset will mean that you need to remake some of the pipe (add a bend or two).
    • Hey guys. So my R34 GTT has a custom 3.5” exhaust (done by previous owner) with a high flowing cat, and then just a Varex cannon muffler on the back. The car does drone alot and is really loud even on highway driving just cruising, as you can imagine due to the Varex muffler basically being a straight through with the valve open. As much as i love a loud RB, it can be a bit much with no other muffling in line and just driving casually. I wanted to lower the volume output on the exhaust a bit, as well as remove the drone (probably a way to do both at once), and was going to do it all myself as I am a fabricator and have done exhaust work in the past, so the fab work isnt my issue, im just not sure on the right product or type of product to use to get the job done, and i doubt an exhaust shop would be wanting to help me as they wont be making any money from helping me, unless they supplied the product? Anyway any help or guidance in best way to approach this would be awesome   Thanks in advance
    • Meh, whilst the Honda is a "really" good car and has potential if you want to drop coin on, it was uninspiring for me to look at, but, it did serve its purpose and is now in the boys hands, his happy, his girl is happy, as she wasn't to keen on the noisy old Patrol, and most importantly, the Minister for War and Finances is extremely happy that her "little baby boy" (6'2 nugget who is currently training to be a copper, which will make 3 coppers in the immediate "circle of trust") has a well sorted reliable car that doesn't guzzle diesel Me, I'm more than happy with the NC MX5 that I replaced it with, it's a fun little car that I like looking at, like driving, and yes..... I do like the fact that the maintenance and modifications that I have done/will do are plentiful and relatively cheap, well........ while staying naturally aspirated slow that is, and that's all I really need for a fun little daily, I can rev the 5hit out of it rowing through the gears and never really break the speed limit  In saying that wicked word, "modifications", I've already ordered something for some noise and an additional "3 ish" horse powers, or whatever it gives, in the form of a header, and, a new set of "cheapo" BC coilovers that are already sitting in the shed waiting to get put in, I had the same BC's in my old NB and found they were fine for the street, hwy, and the occasional track days I did in it, they have 6kg front and 4kg rear springs which is about 10% stiffer than the stock springs which I found worked well for their price  I've also already been in touch with MX5 Mania in Dural, so once the header is on it will get a ECUTek RaceROM tune there (I cannot rev match for 5hit, and I loved the RaceROM rev match and FFS in my old 86 "RIP") In other, maintenance news, I put some new sparkler plugs in it, and have a new set of DBA Street series pads to put in over the next day or so, I'm running the DBA street series in the SS and Honda and really like them, they work great and are not dusty at all I've also booked in a few days leave over this weekend to give me 4 days weekend do some paint correction and give the leather seats some conditioning and interior some Bissell and steam cleaning OCD lovin', the carpet and interior looks clean, but from my experience with the Bissell IRT carpet, and the steam cleaner IRT trim, looks can be deceiving I've also found that finding a detachable hard top is proving problematic, the main reason why I didn't like the NC initially was the power retractable hard top that I seen them with gave the roof line a weird look, the detachable roof though looks good, and is a same shape as a NA/NB hard top, similar, but unfortunately not the same as it has different fixture point on the front, so fitting a easy to get NA/NB detachable hard top is no bueno New Old cars are fun, cleaning, hunting and playing around brings much joy How are your beasties going? Do you still have the Skyline with the LS???, or Barra??? that you were playing with
    • Unfortunately this new build series will come a car too late for you Mark... However, he does do a wicked MX5 build already you can also check out...    
    • Wow, they are some big images! 🤣 That's quite the intake from Stillen!  Theres 3 things you can use a bed for and one of them is laying out car parts. I love it.
×
×
  • Create New...