Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just Cars said they would insure it but wouldn't pay it out if I have an accident because the mods are not "road legal" in SA.

And your current isurance company will probably do the same if they get a chance.

Edited by chops

If you have a good driving record, aren't too young (they will NOT insure under 20yrs) and are a dedicated enthusiast then I would be giving Ryno Insurance a look.

www.rynoinsurance.com.au

They are much like Shannons in that they cater to the enthusiast market, however, I have found them to be much better priced without suffering a lack of quality of service, options, or coverage - and their underwriter has recently posted better figures than Shannons (ie they are as safe as any insurance company can be).

As I posted earlier in this thread, I have agreed value of $38,000 (modified '94 R33 GTS25t), specific modifications are list in my policy, free windscreen coverage, my choice of repairer (any one I want), pay by the month with zero extra charges, and my premium is just over $900*

* Note: I'm 34yrs old and have 'low use' noted on my policy (I do under 5,000klms per year - if that).

I know of a few people that have had to make a claim on their Ryno policy... and not one complaint.

yeah i paid 19 000 for my r33 gts-s series 1. just car insured me for 12 900. my mods alone would be worth 30g's new. i got a quote for a pretty much standard series 2 1997 and they were going to insure me for 17 200. i guess i will have to be extra carefull not to write it off :)

just cars doesn't seem to make much sense then, my 93 r33 gtst agreed value is $15,000. dunno how that 95 skyline is only agreed @ $10,000. I've only got a few mods aswell, been with just cars for 3+ years and haven't had any major probs.

Well I'm definately going to ring them now. Maybe because I'm a youngen they think they can take advantage of me?

I need to get out of JustCar, my 95 33 is agreed at only 10k and they can't do any better!!!

If I ring them and tell them I want it valued higher and threaten to change companies will they raise it?

I'm going to ring around too when i get a chance.

If you speak to a customer service operator, and you arn't happy with the agreed value, try asking to speak to their supervisor to see if they can do something better!

lol, last time i checked GTRs didnt have mitsubishi FTO written across their rear end.... hang on, dont we drive nissans?!?!? =D car sales ftl!! =P

edit: damn, someone beat me to it =(

Edited by Fishpaste~

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...