Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Awesome piece of gear, i'll deffinetly be using it. I like the idea of re-mapping the original ECU and still having the fault codes for diagnostic work. Not to mention the price :woot:

One question i havent found an answer for is, can you use the factory boost control solinoid to adjust boost? I was thinking seeing that your playing with the factory ECU then it might be possbile to adjust what the boost control solinoid is doing too. I also noticed that there is a spot for the consult display to tell you if its operating or not. In a BNR32 will this be possible? That would put the icing on the cake, but no big deal if it can't. An aftermarket EBC might be able to give a more linear boost curve anyway..

Also another question, would the NIStune system remove the 180km/h speed limiter?

This might not be the best place to ask these questions?!?

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-3944917
Share on other sites

Awesome piece of gear, i'll deffinetly be using it. I like the idea of re-mapping the original ECU and still having the fault codes for diagnostic work. Not to mention the price :)

One question i havent found an answer for is, can you use the factory boost control solinoid to adjust boost? I was thinking seeing that your playing with the factory ECU then it might be possbile to adjust what the boost control solinoid is doing too. I also noticed that there is a spot for the consult display to tell you if its operating or not. In a BNR32 will this be possible? That would put the icing on the cake, but no big deal if it can't. An aftermarket EBC might be able to give a more linear boost curve anyway..

Also another question, would the NIStune system remove the 180km/h speed limiter?

This might not be the best place to ask these questions?!?

Deren

We tried to get this to work a while ago with pete (he makes the boards) and we couldn't get it to work, there (at least in a S14) is a whole map you can configure so you can actual plot a whole boost curve, mind you we couldn't get it to work, but we were limited by time and he may have it working now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-3945191
Share on other sites

Oh ok thanks for your reply. I cant get over how powerful this software is. Not that i'd completely know but it seems nearly more powerful than using a PFC?!? I found an answer to my own question after asking about the speed limiter, looks possible to me. Also setting the rev limiter would be handy.

Anyone else had any luck using the software to adjust boost using the stock solinoid?

Deren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-3947564
Share on other sites

Oh ok thanks for your reply. I cant get over how powerful this software is. Not that i'd completely know but it seems nearly more powerful than using a PFC?!? I found an answer to my own question after asking about the speed limiter, looks possible to me. Also setting the rev limiter would be handy.

Anyone else had any luck using the software to adjust boost using the stock solinoid?

Deren

It is very good once you get your head around it all. He is working on making the ideal fuel target table, so you connect the wide band up to the lap top and it will adust the map to suit your ideal mixture table, just like Autronic etc will do.

One thing that we did have slight issue with but haven't really looked into it too far is some type of self learning it has, sometimes you will go back and its alot richer or leaner then it was set to, there is a tab where you can clear all that learnt data (Id have to go back and check exact name was a while ago) then it all returns to normal. We asked pete about it and he wasn't too sure about it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-3947628
Share on other sites

When you say 'go back' do you mean look at the tune that you have previously burnt to the chip? Or just during tuning? Im guessing the latter..?

RE: RB20 180sx - Check out the NIStune website all prices are there: www.NIStune.com

Edited by Godzilla32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-3948032
Share on other sites

We tuned the car, then a few days later ran it up again and the AF curve was the same shape, but from say 12.5:1 average to 13.5:1, we were puzzled with what was going on, stuffed around a bit and cleared the computer and went back to normal, so not sure what it was "self learning" or if it can really do that but something was a bit weired. We asked pete about it and he said he never seen it before and few other people said the same, but i don't know how many people bring it back to redyno it to check. Mind you seems to be fine again now?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-3948097
Share on other sites

Ok fair enough. See how i go when i eventually purchase it.. Thanks for your input :laugh:

BTW Matt has informed me that its possible to map a boost curve with NIStune using the stock boost control solenoid but only on the BNR32, S14A, and S15. Unfortunetly there is no map tracing for the boost map. You can however ready the map trace off one of the other maps and use that to know what cells to adjust. The only down side so far is they havent finalised knock sensing on NIStune so that is still to come but Matt emailed me today saying that last night they had it working while tuning a HCR32 and it went very well so its just a matter of time really :P

Deren

Edited by Godzilla32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-3956913
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

ok did u guys get an r32 ecu with nistine installed on it?

i looked up NIStune.com and the faq's said

10. Do you stock anything for R33 or R34 Skyline

We do not stock boards for R33 or R34 Skyline, however contact Sam at http://www.drdrift.com.au who can get a Japanese EPROM board. They cost about $1000AUD. These will work with a Moates emulator and NIStune for real-time tuning an R33 with full consult map tracing and logging.

Your other alternative is to use an R32 Skyline ECU or Z32 300ZX ECU. The R32 ECU will not support VCT and several other features. Z32 300ZX ECU can be remapped to run R33 RB25 engines with some minor wiring modifications.

so im confused have they worked around it now?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-4200257
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

The std boost control solenoid needs to be plumbed into the wastegate line like a normal controller, the factory plumbing will only allow about 2-3psi change no matter what you do. Then changes to the map will make a real change.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-4240428
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
The std boost control solenoid needs to be plumbed into the wastegate line like a normal controller, the factory plumbing will only allow about 2-3psi change no matter what you do. Then changes to the map will make a real change.

I've been thinking about modifying my R32 GTR, should I pay the $1000 for a PowerFC, or $400~ (I think I only need the board if I'm going to have a workshop tuning it for me) for the Nistune?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-4269412
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

For anyone considering the Nistune, just got mine done and love it!

As everyone else i was tossing up between this and a power FC. Spoke to my tuner who said there is absolutely no reason not to use a Nistune and it's more than capable for some very high power levels.

All up for me costs were $750 including 4-5hrs tuning and I''m rapped with the results.

Tuner had no probs whatsoever with it, and my N1 is now putting out 276.5 rwkw on 16psi, with a bosst controller, pods and exhaust.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-4299202
Share on other sites

It is very good once you get your head around it all. He is working on making the ideal fuel target table, so you connect the wide band up to the lap top and it will adust the map to suit your ideal mixture table, just like Autronic etc will do.

One thing that we did have slight issue with but haven't really looked into it too far is some type of self learning it has, sometimes you will go back and its alot richer or leaner then it was set to, there is a tab where you can clear all that learnt data (Id have to go back and check exact name was a while ago) then it all returns to normal. We asked pete about it and he wasn't too sure about it.

this is usually caused (form some ive seen come in) by too much timing in the map somewhere causing it to switch to the knock maps (richer).

Best bet is to get some decent knock detection (gizzmo K-mon, knock box etc) and tune the car, switch it off and do another run if you find the AF changes copy your fuel map into the knock map by pressing KNOCK COPY button and this will ensure both maps are the same. Turn the car off and the restart it and do another run, and repeat. if the A/F is constant after making the two maps the same then you know the issue is your timing map (causing it to switch). Remmeber to richen the knock map up after your done fixing the issues in your timing map..

So far ive had no issue with shifting A/f values.

The NISTUNE stuff is extremely good value for money and im yet to find any real limitations in 99% of applications.

Edited by URAS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-4301040
Share on other sites

this is usually caused (form some ive seen come in) by too much timing in the map somewhere causing it to switch to the knock maps (richer).

Best bet is to get some decent knock detection (gizzmo K-mon, knock box etc) and tune the car, switch it off and do another run if you find the AF changes copy your fuel map into the knock map by pressing KNOCK COPY button and this will ensure both maps are the same. Turn the car off and the restart it and do another run, and repeat. if the A/F is constant after making the two maps the same then you know the issue is your timing map (causing it to switch). Remmeber to richen the knock map up after your done fixing the issues in your timing map..

So far ive had no issue with shifting A/f values.

The NISTUNE stuff is extremely good value for money and im yet to find any real limitations in 99% of applications.

Do you do these?

If so wanna trade one of these for an r33 gtst power fc?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-4301940
Share on other sites

PFC is still the best option for r33, the remap is too dear and down on features, the rest are AOK.

what about using a z32 ecu, have you played with this option yet, if you can get it to work in sure a lot of 33 owners would be interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/4/#findComment-4302660
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...