Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I was lucky enough to snap the last stud when removing my exhaust manifold last night. I had a search around and i couldnt find anyone who could do this locally.

Just wondering if anyone knew of a service in the Capalaba/ Brisbane area that could come out to my house and remove the broken stud? If anyone knows a company name or number i could call it would be much appreciated.

I would really like to do it myself but i would probly lose my temper trying to get to it with a drill.

Thanks in advance

David :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181937-mobile-stud-removal/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well all i have come to the stage where i am in desperate need to get this broken stud out of my block. I have heard all the great things about "threadtech" but i cannot manage to get a hold of the person. i have been provided both phone and mobile number and they both ring out and go to message bank. i have left multiple messages and called multiple times. Im sure its a great company from all the good reviews i have heard from this person but i need this stud out before my car goes in to be tuned this friday. I was wondering if anyone knows of any other company that can provide the same service of coming out to my house and removing the stud?

Any help would be greatly appreciated because i am at wits end trying to get this stud out. i have also managed to try an easy out tool and it managed to snap in the centre of the broken stud. please help. thanks in advance

david

go to bunnings, go to the tool section and ask them for one of those tools that remove snapped studs, forget what is called, but it costs like 12 bucks, and get a drill bit too, think its like 6mm u need, costs like 8 bucks, then drill a hole into the stud, stick in the tool and it will slowley bring it out, if that fails, get a 10.25mm drill bit, bore out the hole, tap in a new thread, put in a helicoil thread, then ya new bolt. i had to do it to mine couple weeks ago, easily done, but if its not at the front of the engine u will need to get a right angle converter for your drill, costs liek 15 bucks at bunnings. hope that helps, if not, pay someone 100 bucks to do it for u

go to bunnings, go to the tool section and ask them for one of those tools that remove snapped studs, forget what is called, but it costs like 12 bucks, and get a drill bit too, think its like 6mm u need, costs like 8 bucks, then drill a hole into the stud, stick in the tool and it will slowley bring it out, if that fails, get a 10.25mm drill bit, bore out the hole, tap in a new thread, put in a helicoil thread, then ya new bolt. i had to do it to mine couple weeks ago, easily done, but if its not at the front of the engine u will need to get a right angle converter for your drill, costs liek 15 bucks at bunnings. hope that helps, if not, pay someone 100 bucks to do it for u

The problem with that is that he has snapped said tool inside the hole he already drilled. Any attempt to drill it out from now on will usually result in a blunt drill bit. You will need to get thread tech to do it. 1300 THREAD

Does anyone else have this much trouble getting onto threadtech at all? I already have gone down the path of going to bunnings and purchasing a drill, drill bits, angled chuck, multiple sized stud removal tools. the stud gets a daily shower in wd40 and an angry eyeing off by the owner. and i dont like my chances of even getting a welder to fit in there.

i want threadtech to get this thing out as i cannot find anyone else.

You will have to try and get this easyout bit out before you can do anything . If you manage to get this bit out its not very difficult as long as you have an oxy torch .

You will have to heat the area then use the easyout and she will come , careful do not get carried away with the oxy because the cyl head is alloy, dont melt it . If you don't have oxy or any experience with oxy try normal lp gas but it may not work with that . CARE should be taken when using flame to make sure no fuel is around especialy in a closed garage . You maybe better off letting some expert to take it out .

If you stuffed the thread , don't worry they can drill a bigger hole and then use a helicoil .

ohhh i see, i didnt really read before i posted lol

i snapped mine easyout too thing in there too, there realy weak why is that? i just bought a decent drill bit, put heaps of oil on it a drilled at a really slow constant speed, and it worked

Definitely grab the reverse drill bit and give it a go as I had a broken studs on a few types of heads and in most cases the drill will bite at some point and wind the sucker strait out. Then again I never had an easy out broken off in there either. Take it easy and be carfull with that alloy!!! Good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
    • This is why you flex fuel it...
    • That is what I took from it too. Needed to go AWD S14 imo.
×
×
  • Create New...