Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Im finding a GTR 32 hard to come by, well a decent one that is. Does any one know of any for sale? a mate of a mate or a friend of a friend?

Have been looking at tradingpost.com and carsales.com, any others i should check out?

Plz point me in any direction.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182607-trying-to-find-a-gtr-32-in-adelaide/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, When I bought mine I looked on carsales. From memory there was a massive amount something like 40-50 R32 GTR's through out OZ for sale. If theres not one decent one out of all those then your best bet is to import one yourself. Also if its imported under the 15yo rule dont buy it interstate as it will end up costing you more then you think, basically has to be re-complied again.

Ryan

Hey mate, When I bought mine I looked on carsales. From memory there was a massive amount something like 40-50 R32 GTR's through out OZ for sale. If theres not one decent one out of all those then your best bet is to import one yourself. Also if its imported under the 15yo rule dont buy it interstate as it will end up costing you more then you think, basically has to be re-complied again.

Ryan

had a look at brads, nice for sure...

not reali interested in importing, dont want the hassel.

Wasnt Shrub32 selling his?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry3215608

Suprised hes having trouble selling it!

i hear that :laughing-smiley-014: had a couple of offers also a few trades one was for a gtir plus cash

I'd say the ones wanting 20+ are the ones worth looking at, especially if they're as clean and well done like shrub32's. Last thing you want is a rebuilder's dream...

lol true but who evers i decide on i wil buy on the condition it can be booked into boostworx first for a full going over

I would sell mine for $27,000 . Its a 94 (built somewhere in the last 200 to come off the production line) which I brought over 4yrs ago. Cost me $35,000 back then and have all receipts (over $40,000 spent) . Its silver and looks stock except for the exhaust and front mount. Last dyno at peter hall was 292rwks and compresion was perfect for all six cylinders. R32GTR plates with the car. If your interested pm me , And i will list the mods. Insured for agreed value of $27,500 with H2P.

I will cry if you do buy it though so bring some tissues for me.

Also thinking of selling mine. It's an '89 with a few mods. Need cash more than a car sitting in the garage. Probably only looking for around $17 K mark.

If you are looking for a perfect GT-R this may not be for you, but if you want an honest and registered car please PM me.

Cheers

and have all receipts (over $40,000 spent) . Its silver and looks stock except for the exhaust and front mount. Last dyno at peter hall was 292rwks

$40k spent and only 292rwkw?

rather little for the money imo

Dollars spent not just on power obviously.

This car looks stock except for the exhaust and front mount as said but this was my daily driver for three years.

I will give you an Idea where the money has gone

front mount high flow (tilbrooks special) $1800

HKS piping for above $600

custom manifolds $1200

R34 N1 turbos approx $6,000 (runing 1.1bar )

custom 3 1/2" exhaust from dump pipes back inc high flow cat $2,300

Carbon cannon muffler $500

exedy twin plate clutch (replaced twice) first 1 cost $4thou and got smart 2nd cost $3thou

custom bushes for rear cradle suspension $600

offset bushes for entire front suspension $1200 including labour

replaced engine mounts $250

airflow meters replaced twice at $350 each plus dyno

ignighter coil

power fc plus tune $1550

new fuel pump

new N1 water pump

new air filters $200 (plus purchased stock box $160 plus new filter $200)

alarm $600

alpine deck(cd) $400

new focal speakers $600

timing belt done $1000

timing belt tensioners done twice(included above) and another $400

gold dba cross drilled rotars front and back with pads $2,200

theres more but minds gone blank

the last bill was $3,800 (clutch $2,500 labour $500 , service injectors $200, new calcium battery $120, replace gear box oil $90 (inc flush) clutch hose $120 , rekit clutch master cylinder plus service.

These cars arent cheap to run LOL

The turbos are not for big KWS but for optimal response.

The only things needed are boost controler and larger injectors (fuel system) and more power.

The old parts are sitting in the shed (intercooler , dump pipes, turbos etc)

easy to spend $40,000 LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...