Jump to content
SAU Community

what colour would you want? on any car  

137 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

best bet is to hold onto it, love it and spend your money in the right place and it will hold value.

they don't hold their value unfortunatly especially because of the supply and demand thing

i think we all wish they did....

its all sentimental value, you love the car, you've spent xxxxxx amount of dollars on it, you'll never get it back on a R33

And a car is not an investment. You always lose money unless you got a great deal when you bought it.

Wrong....if you have an Aussie Muscle car...got one in the showroom for 700k....

Wrong....if you have an Aussie Muscle car...got one in the showroom for 700k....

very true... even now the american muscle cars are an investment

my mate had a original VL walkinshaw about 6yrs back, he sold it for around $25k but motor was fully worked etc.. and it was a fully restored car

only a couple weeks back my friend baught a walkinshaw that has to be restored for i think around $50k he was saying

i dont see this happening with an r33 lol

very true... even now the american muscle cars are an investment

my mate had a original VL walkinshaw about 6yrs back, he sold it for around $25k but motor was fully worked etc.. and it was a fully restored car

only a couple weeks back my friend baught a walkinshaw that has to be restored for i think around $50k he was saying

i dont see this happening with an r33 lol

Awesome story... Needed space invaders and Tim Allen.

My HG GTS Monaro will sell for more than I paid for it! When I buy my next import, R34 GTT or JZX100 Chaser I Think Ill keep it for a long time. To much mucking around to sell.

Im only really selling as I am bored of it, 33's are great cars to drive & modify, but ive had it for over 6 years and want something new, something a bit more hi-tech, something newer, something really different to a 33gts-t. So im in a loose loose situation really. Either drop the price to some stupidly low figure just to get rid of it.......or throw more good money at bad to keep me interested in the car. Either way it'll be loosing money.

Guess it may not be worth re-spaying it a custom colour, as mentioned that would really only attract younger buyers tending to be more interested in street attention then quality of car. Which unfortunatly now.....is illegal for them to drive on P's anyway. Might just add a Nismo/Mines stripe or something?

keep the feeback / opinions coming, makes for an interesting read, some very valid points being made thats for sure!

maybe if you tidy it up a little, not saying its shit or anything but these people these days would be very picky in buying a s1 r33, if you clean it up cos your pics make it look like its a bit rough just say, might attract more buyers i maybe...

seriously i'm not just saying its not worth the money you're asking, really it is worth it cos in the long run people would spend more than that modifying it true?

also the p-plater laws like you said dont help, people these days are wanting the sleeper look, your car looks very agressive might attract more attention

but really it looks tuff ;)

dismantle the car and sell it for parts......probably would get more back.

yeah I've been doing that a little, sold my customcarbon bonnet, carbon d wing, sports seats an a few other small parts. I just dont want to wreck the car by stripping it back much more. but your right. I may have to to get any kind of decent money back

It could be far worse...stop crying your cars are only worth so much because thats what you have been offered.

:D:) :)

If you had bought a Monaro Fully optioned for 95K...5 years ago and have to sell it for 45K now.

If you had bought a Porsche,BMW,Mercedes you would have lost 40% of the cars value in 5 years.

Sure if you want to keep it for 40 years...it will be a collectors item...and worth good money.

Personally I would strip what I could off the car(that is if you don't want it no more) and sell it to the highest bidder.

Where have you advertised your car?..I am sure you have not covered all your market

Good luck with your sale....

as someone thats in the market for a skyline right now and that happens to be the first car off my p's, i have some very specific tastes. Two of them are black/silver with a sunroof, in a 96/97 series II. I can't speak for everyone that would be looking at your car, but I assume theres others there like me who would not bother even looking at your car because of it being white. Personally I would spend more on a stock car with these features, than a modded white one without them.

its very hard to get the money these cars are worth these days, I was wondering that if it was a custom colour, would you be more likely to sell it & get a decent price for it??

whats your opinion?

my 33 is just white, its an awsome quality car that ive spent heaps of time & money in getting all the right top quality bang for buck mods, yet i've had such little interest. If I gave it a good quality low budget re-spray (lots of friends that are spray painters), think it'd get more interest?

have you recently sold a Skyline? what colour was it an how long did it take to sell? did you get what you were after for it?

look forward to seeing people feeback

cheers

Hate to say but by the look of your car's photo,

You've got GAY RIMs and GAY body kit, GAY side mirrors. No offence and i appologise if i do but a skyline that has been done up the JDM way always win more heart than any other ways.

Neat, simple and nice.

I also lost more than 10K when i sold my GTR but that's just a part of the game, i've had enough fun with it, simple though i'm planing to buy a 33gtr next year or so, damn gotta miss that 2.6 zorst note.

lol....no offence taken. Whats wrong with black BBS wheels? Whats wrong with stock mirrors? and the Veilside rear bar isnt everyones taste, but you dont like 400R sides an a genuine GTR front bar?

i think it looks neat simple & nice.....but maybe im wrong (or maybe you think it still looks the same as my signature picture an havent looked at my for sale thread?)

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...