Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

*EDIT* Have the old turbo off and already in my car :(, got the new manifold on with new gasket, got the turbo on the manifold and now to play the waiting game for some more pipe.

ran into a minor issue with the powersteering resivour hitting the turbo but i moved it around the strut and its all good ill keep u updated

hey guys basically i wanna know wat im getting myself into, if i put a highmounted T04e on my mates car i can have his old turbo for nothing !

WAT DO I NEED TO DO and pictures please

Hes got already

T04e

Highmount Manifold

aftermarket 3inch dump

zaust

injectors

gtr fmic

braided longer oil lines

Thanks quigga

Edited by Quigga
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182896-t04e-highmounted-on-rb25det/
Share on other sites

if your askin the question maybe your the wrong man for the job

:(

my opinion its a piece of pie if you know your way around an rb, UNLESS the ex mani studs snap then its probably not worth the time you will be spending on it for a measly 2hunj dola turbo.

also is the dump gona line up with the new height?? more f*k around

yeh "IF" everything goes to plan (which with cars it doesnt) then it would be a very simple task to just put it all on.

but if the dump doesnt line up with the front pipe = slight problem

if the cooler piping needs to be modified/moved/lenghtend = slight problem

as mentioned, if you snap studs... = slight problem

have you got all the turbo's coolant/oil lines?

really it wouldnt be to hard, but with all the little problems that "CAN" arise, a 1day job can turn into a few days...

have you got a ECU that will suit? or are you using the standard one? gotta also get it tuned...

lots of "IF" situations. but if you got the time, and a little extra money in the bank (just incase lol) then yeh go ahead and do it, you'l learn alot.

CJ

If you need to ask the question of "how to do it" then your probably not the best person to do it.

Things aren't always as straight forward as they sound or seem.

Have you ever done any work similar to that before?

Just make sure you know what your getting yourself in to..

With cars, you ALWAYS run into extra bits and pieces to do. If I were you I'd still do it just for the experience as you will learn alot about how the car works along with gain more confidence mechanically (if that makes sense).

It isnt a small job, but it is definetly doable even if you dont know too much about it, just call friends, ask questions on forums and talk to tuners when you hit an obstacle. Give it a go I say

Without a ECU its going to be very average, even with a tune... it wont be the best in response stakes.

Will make more power than stock, ye. But the way it will ramp up onto boost (poorly) will make it a hard task to drive it faster than with the stock turbo ;)

I had a t04e on a RB25 4-5 years ago... certainly was a cheap setup, and the results backed that up.

If the turbo isn't a gtrs or better bolt on, then tell him to go to a work shop.

You could easily spend an entire weekend installing all those bits and still be a long way short of finished when you realise you can't get custom lines for the turbo on a sunday arvo, or bits of pipe for the custom intake piping, or you split an oring installing the new injectors, or you snap some studs off in the head and then snap the easy out off in there.

No mention of a dump pipe so i assume there isn't one

And you haven't mentioned a wastegate either or that matter.

Seriously, If you snap 3 studs on the manifold (likely) and you are a first timer, you will spend all day trying to get them out.

ok enough with the i dont think u can do it crap its flat out :D

im more than capable of doing it after doing 2 rb silvia conversions, a 13bt into a mazda 626 82, a bpt into a lazer and a 20v 4agze into a ae81.......

just was looking for anythign that i might run into, i shoulda stated that i already assumed that the cooler piping has to be modded (no worries) assumed the dump had to be changed, its wheather i need a wastegate setup, longer oil/cooler lines ect

btw it is worth it because im gettin a gt35/40,

Yes it will be getting engine managment in the near future but thats his problem i am just doing this turbo install, ive asked these questions because i HAVENT SEEN IT BEFORE! i havent even seen his stuff have to wait till weekend so back to orginal post

PICTURES worth a thousand words, and any problelms u guys have run into?

sorry about the rant but i need some advice before i do the job so i dont do things the hard way not people to tell me im wasting my time......

hope to hear responses

Quigga

o well since your quite capable of doing this, then sorry about my posts mate, i just wasnt sure if you were a beginner :D

soz but i havnt done that sort of work to my car so im no help to you now lol :)

good luck with it.

CJ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...