Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got 19 x 9.5 on the rear 19 x 8 on the front. 35 fronts, 30 rears. Rides fine I think. If it wasn't for the shitty Sydney roads im sure you wouldnt have a problem driving it anywhere else. It drives no different to when it was on 17s. Youv just gotta tuck your 19s under the guards so it doesnt sit too high. Problem is 265 tyres I cant afford to replace all the time with the big camber you need to squeeze them under...

Yes and everywhere else in the land of oz has crap roads to..lol....19's are for looks only..road ride would be terrible

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thanks people apreaciate the effort. shitti town and surroundings we got heaps o pot holes so i recon prolly get 18s that r fat sith some thick rubber. then they will be cheaper, legal and look good and be pritty hard to buckle under my circumstances. much apreciated.

ps raise ur car 4 foot pfffft

2 pce 20's are better then the cheapie ones u get.. weight wise no different to stock 17's ride height depends on how good ur tyres are .. compund etc.. but then again i love my extra hard jic coilovers so it didnt matter next up moving to 3 pce 22" work rims when i get some funds together for guard work :)

2 pce 20's are better then the cheapie ones u get.. weight wise no different to stock 17's

:laughing-smiley-014:

ride height depends on how good ur tyres are .. compund etc

:laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014:

3 pce 22" work rims

:laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014:

spewin for all the states that go by inches for the increase in wheel size.

In ACT (and i thought that all states were the same) the increase in wheel size is calculated by rolling diameter, +/- 14mm from standard.

so basically the bigger the wheels you get, the smaller profile on the tyres you buy.

18's can be legal on a gemini even though they cam factory with 13's

in qld:

The rim diameter may be varied from the standard size but the overall diameter of the tyre must not vary by more than +15mm or -26mm.

and for width:

The maximum tyre width for a car or car derivative must not be more than 1.3 times the vehicle manufacturer’s widest optional tyre.

However, for an off-road passenger vehicle fitted with front and rear beam axles, the maximum tyre width must not be more than 1.5 times the vehicle manufacturer’s widest optional tyre.

The nominal width of the narrowest tyre fitted to a vehicle must not be less than 70 per cent of the nominal width of the largest tyre fitted and never less than the

vehicle manufacturer’s narrowest optional tyre as indicated on the manufacturer’s tyre placard.

I'm actually considering going for 19's because the R34 seems to have bigger guards to fill out than R33's. I've had some 18x10.5" rims on the rear of my car that came off some unknown vehicle and surprisingly they fit fine and didn't rub, even around Oran Park GP circuit. I think they only had 270 tyres on them though and my car isn't stupidly low.

I just bought 19's for my V35.

RAYS SF Challenge, and are only around 9-10kgs per wheel.

Same as Abo Bob, re the guards. On a V35, even 19's look too small without it lowered.

Personally the correct 19's don't necessarily look Autosalon (not that there's anything wrong with that :yes: ).

Especially on a car with big wheel wells.

I just bought 19's for my V35.

RAYS SF Challenge, and are only around 9-10kgs per wheel.

Same as Abo Bob, re the guards. On a V35, even 19's look too small without it lowered.

Personally the correct 19's don't necessarily look Autosalon (not that there's anything wrong with that :D ).

Especially on a car with big wheel wells.

Agreed, 19s and 20s will not look out of place on a V35 or 350z :P Just as long as they are not cheap chromies :P

hi im interested in getting some big rims for my car but want to know about if there were any problems with them before i go ahead. 18" 19" 20"? do 20" ride really rough and when u hit a pothole buckle? if i got 18s or 19s with like 40 of 45 mm tyres would they be any good?

From my experience, the bigger they are, the easier they bend. and they do. they also ride rougher.

15" are where its at

just got some 19x9.5 (275)rears and 8.5 fronts (235 i think). ride is more bumpy for sure but thats expected with the lower profile tyres. 18s just looked too small on the 33

i thought they would rub but not one sign of rubbing anywhere so im really happy, just need to lower it maybe 1" as its riding at standard ride height still

i just got 20in, 10 inch rears and 9 inch fronts. they look good, but if i could do it all again i would go 18 simply for the practicality. 20 inch is something different but be prepared for guard work if your wanting wide wheels..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...