Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks sky...the result was only 2kw short of its best ever pump fuel figure. Considering how hard we used to push the pump fuel tunes its really impressive to almost top the figure given the limits set.

the plugs were everyones favorite BCPR7ES's....we ran something colder with different style electrode...even they were not the optimum plug for the application.

1100+hp turbo vs a pair of 460hp turbos, its easy to see why its making around the same power but easier paul. it should wake up a hell of a lot more with some decent boost behind it

make sure u grab a plot of afr & timing too please paul

  • Replies 682
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

1100+hp turbo vs a pair of 460hp turbos, its easy to see why its making around the same power but easier paul. it should wake up a hell of a lot more with some decent boost behind it

make sure u grab a plot of afr & timing too please paul

i remember when Mark was tuning the Autronic ECU with the GT-RS's the difference between 22 and 25psi was mad...one made good power, the other made the car almost jump off the dyno. They really woke up and it was only 3 measly psi difference.

AFR power and torque only.

i remember when Mark was tuning the Autronic ECU with the GT-RS's the difference between 22 and 25psi was mad...one made good power, the other made the car almost jump off the dyno. They really woke up and it was only 3 measly psi difference.

AFR power and torque only.

all i was interested in was the amount of timing inaccuracy there is up in the rev range, i'm assuming ur still using the factory cas only for timing? could be something worth looking into, even if u dont want to give out those details

all i was interested in was the amount of timing inaccuracy there is up in the rev range, i'm assuming ur still using the factory cas only for timing? could be something worth looking into, even if u dont want to give out those details

we use the Nissan CAS for pump fuel...have another set-up for race fuel when we 'wick it up'.

Edited by DiRTgarage
why would you change the cas? the vi-pec uses a digital signal

couple of reasons...crank twist and belt deflection. Mark says its the way to go on a WOT high rpm drag car...im just doing as im told by the master. Its no fluke he's the 3rd fastest in the world, his car is ultra consistent and reliable. The custom set-up does not use a tooth style trigger wheel mounted on the nose of the crank...its nice and stealthy. :P Im sure Shane knows the set-up im refering to.

Edited by DiRTgarage
couple of reasons...crank twist and belt deflection. Mark says its the way to go on a WOT high rpm drag car...im just doing as im told by the master. Its no fluke he's the 3rd fastest in the world, his car is ultra consistent and reliable. The custom set-up does not use a tooth style trigger wheel mounted on the nose of the crank...its nice and stealthy. :thumbsup: Im sure Shane knows the set-up im refering to.

ah yes so u do, i couldnt remember if it was you or mark that used that 'backwards' setup

Paul will you always be running the bell mouth on the turbo with no filter?

Nice result.

Will a power band of 3500 rpm be enough to get you down the quarter faster than before with out a super dooper gear box?

Paul will you always be running the bell mouth on the turbo with no filter?

Nice result.

Will a power band of 3500 rpm be enough to get you down the quarter faster than before with out a super dooper gear box?

No i will not always run the Japanese air filter...getting a pipe made up this week to suit 2 large K&N items.

Yeah its a nice result but its not a real indication of what it will do...the dyno printout is pretty useless as the line disappears off the page ill get Wanye to rescale it tomorrow. The AFR's read by the dyno on the 465 run were closer to 11 than 11.4...yikes! But this was may have been due to the plug change as it was spot on 11.4's the night before.

I do have a super dooper gearbox...its a PPG fully optioned straight cut dogbox. The car shouldn't see much less than 7000rpm down the strip if im on my game.

Took it for a run on my 'test track' today...its nuts already!

Edited by DiRTgarage
I was thinking something sequential. Is yours still a H pattern?

What ever you use it still takes nothing away from the car being nuts. Good work.

Yes its a H pattern. The box is so slick to change and not a hassle at all on the street once you work out the way it likes to be shifted. On the upshift you would be hard pressed to even know it was a dogbox and on the downshift a simple increase of about 500rpm double shuffling allows it to select the lower gear without the clunk.

Edited by DiRTgarage
1100+hp turbo vs a pair of 460hp turbos, its easy to see why its making around the same power but easier paul. it should wake up a hell of a lot more with some decent boost behind it

Paul, are there 2 different trims of the GTR-s kit? Or did you bolt on 2 SR20 spec ones? When I bought mine they were advertised as a 700ps kit for Rb26.

Thanks

Edited by Evocoop
Yes its a H pattern. The box is so slick to change and not a hassle at all on the street once you work out the way it likes to be shifted. On the upshift you would be hard pressed to even know it was a dogbox and on the downshift a simple increase of about 500rpm double shuffling allows it to select the lower gear without the clunk.

Hey paul, do you know what marks fastest time was with the hks t51r on street tyres?

Cheers, mat.

Haha, im keen to see his GTRS graph at 22psi vs the 25psi one

No doubt the single wouldnt be as much fun for what i use the GTR for compared to Pauls use, but then he's not worried about lag :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...