Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbos?

lukeybaby

By lukeybaby,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

super_32 Enthusiast

super_32

Posted
Posted

im just about to apply one on my rb20det.. 32 skyline GTST4.. its the KR43 high flow(500HP) mods to go with z32AFM, GTR 440cc injectors and will be external gated through their brand 38mm wastegate.. also highmounted manifold..

gonna run it on a dual stage boost controller prob low(11) and high(16) with a new custom clutch to handle new power and take offs :)

im hoping this will be done next week.. new tyres this week then its goin to be done for sure

chris

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Ive got a mate who just bought one and currently in the process of fitting it up to his CA...after looking at it the quality seems really good, as for driveablity no idea, but they seem to look like alright turbos...

Maybe also search on NS, alot of people with 32s use them on there as well.

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted (edited)

They seem like an alright turbo for the price. Like femno said, there is a few NS.com boys running them on there cars, seem to go alright.

Personally, I wouldn't go for one being only oil cooled. I'd prefer something thats oil and water cooler.

Would prefer to get an RB25 turbo high flowed for that price, maybe GCG or someone similar.

Edited by abu
zertek Proficient

zertek

Posted
Posted

interested to know how these things go. Personally i am very opinionated about using a trusted brand turbo charger on my car.

1# its the cars main source of power increase

2# what if the hyper gear decides to spit turbine blades into your engine?

Also like abu said, oil cooled only. When you think about it, you wont pay too much extra for something out of the garrett or hks range when you know you can expect good quality and performance and feel comfortable about it.

Dont get me wrong, these turbo's might actually be the goods... but i dont know anyone who has had experience with them yet so id be a little weary at first, thats all.

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted
interested to know how these things go. Personally i am very opinionated about using a trusted brand turbo charger on my car.

1# its the cars main source of power increase

2# what if the hyper gear decides to spit turbine blades into your engine?

Also like abu said, oil cooled only. When you think about it, you wont pay too much extra for something out of the garrett or hks range when you know you can expect good quality and performance and feel comfortable about it.

Dont get me wrong, these turbo's might actually be the goods... but i dont know anyone who has had experience with them yet so id be a little weary at first, thats all.

Yep thats pretty much it. In the end there not proven, nor are they some big brand turbo which you expect a minimum result from.

For a little extra, and I mean not a great deal more you could get a GARRETT GTRS or something similar, which is an awesome turbo.

I am now looking at HKS/GARRETT replacement instead of a high flow alternative, in the end I am willing to pay that extra few hundred for a proven good brand turbo that will show/has shown results.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...