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yeah the break in period is fun :closedeyes:

If you are going Naturally aspirated, usually don't rev it too hard for the first 1000km, use a mineral based oil, good quality but definitely not synthetic

If you are going turbo, the easiest thing to do is just remove the wastegate actuator flap, so it's open, or the spring if it's external I think

after the break in, drain the oil and put a good synthetic in there :P then get a better tune and crank out the fun :no: 4th gear burnouts with vids FTW

Edited by skybarge
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My 2c..

Give it a go, if you have knowledgable help and the resources :/

My mechanic mate and I performed a twincam 30 conversion on my 32 in a weekend.. had a few teething problems but I did drive it home 3am Monday morning running rich as hell on the stock ecu :)

I got a prepped block, forgies and head off my mate and threw stock crank and rods in there and swapped everything off the RB20.. should have had the crank ground to begin with but you get that :) had to pull the engine out a month later and whack a new crank in it (only cost ~$300 for a new crank, machining and a set of bearings).

Now, Phase II: Birth of the GT35R is approaching :sick:

Cummon guys dont be so down. Go out and buy a good engine reconditioning book, and study it, bear in mind you will have to spend about $1000 on tools assuming you already have the simple tools like spanners and sockets, but youll spend that money on labour anyway. Get the motor machined up and assemble yourself, checking everything twice. Hire an engine crane for the weekend_or buy one, there like $200 on ebay) and swap them yourself, save you money and give you twice the satisfaction.
+1 with what Adriano said.

+2 with Adriano. Although i personally would get the engine built by a pro, and do the engine swap over myself. you will save atleast 1500 swapping the engine yourself and have peice of mind your engine was built by a pro.

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