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Since majority of this household has some type of "Skyline addiction" it appears now that this addiction is also infectious.

Many of you who came to the BBQ at my place recently had a chance to meet Chris (SteadyEddie)... the only member of our household who doesn't own a Skyline.

I ask my trusty SAU friends to help find a great Skyline for him... the only thing is that due to a stroke when he was 15yo (different type of stroke to what most lads have at that age :whistling: ) he can now only drive an automatic.

He really likes the R32 and R34 look and some 33's, his preferred colours are silver, gunmetal or white.

He wants a good deal... good value for money. He can't physically do a lot to the car, so it would need to be mechanically sound.

What's hot with the autos?

Help find us a deal.

i was actually going to suggest a R34 GT-T. A lot newer so less chance of stuff breaking and they look nice and clean. 21k is an ok price. I would recommend checking the FS section on SAU becase there are so many people trying to sell them on here you might be able to pick up a bargain + you if you are parnoid like me you can check what the previous owner has posted...

it's always interesting to read when someone is trying to sell a car saying never strapped or been abused... you then go look at some of there posts talking about racing all these fully sick HSV's and i drifted around this round about yesterday is was SICKKKKKKKKKK!!!

anyways enough of a rant :thumbsup:

haha im going to avoid selling mine on these forums

(crashed previous skyline, spat on my interior while trying to get a spider out from gauge cluster and a few others)

Haha - can I get a discount on yours cos I can't get the chicken smell out of the car? :thumbsup:

And heaven forbid the one that uses a hammer for fixing everything LOL

i was actually going to suggest a R34 GT-T.

What are they like to drive/handle? Much different? They look good, even the yellow ones are nice (hey Shell LOL)

Yellow (I'm pretty sure Ive seen these pics in the FS section in SAU

http://www.uniquecarsales.com.au/pls/carsa...&trans_id=1

More yellow

http://www.uniquecarsales.com.au/pls/carsa...&trans_id=1

Low price ?

http://www.uniquecarsales.com.au/pls/carsa...&trans_id=1

It has to be an easy colour to keep clean, cos Steady doesn't like washing cars.

What are they like to drive/handle? Much different? They look good, even the yellow ones are nice (hey Shell LOL)

Yellow (I'm pretty sure Ive seen these pics in the FS section in SAU

http://www.uniquecarsales.com.au/pls/carsa...&trans_id=1

More yellow

http://www.uniquecarsales.com.au/pls/carsa...&trans_id=1

omg.. yummmm :thumbsup:

the white one would be cheap cos its non-turbo/auto/4 door - the 3 things most people usually don't want.

Good luck in the search, I'll keep an eye out! and btw, i don't remember meeting Chris at your house :D I dont think I met him.. did I??

omg.. yummmm :thumbsup:

the white one would be cheap cos its non-turbo/auto/4 door - the 3 things most people usually don't want.

Good luck in the search, I'll keep an eye out! and btw, i don't remember meeting Chris at your house :D I dont think I met him.. did I??

Ummm did you go down to the flat at all? Some stuck their heads in and said hi on their way to see the Harley... well they were one eyed actually, they didn't look at the Harley, they all started playing with the Skylines instead LOL and then others (who shall remain nameless) were talking to him through the intercom without knowing where it was going hehe

lol.. well i went to the garage, but I didnt see the flat :blink: your house is like a maze :)

i do actually remember something about the intercom but I wasnt really paying attention I dont think..

auto's go cheap, cause no one wants them. so you should find a good deal for around $10,000 (r33's) or even less if you look hard enough. good thing about an auto is that it stays on boost between gear changes. however, the auto box isn't that great. its pretty much straight from the r31 with some wiring differences. but, if you dont do silly down shifts (like from D to 1st at 80kph!) it should be fine....

I think this one is my fav (so far, after doing a load of searching)

http://www.uniquecarsales.com.au/pls/carsa...mp;photo_flag=1

So what do people think? Scott was here last night and he thinks there are too many mods done to the engine, but I still really like it... :)

I also notice its up on SAU

I think I like this one more... and its 5 years younger

http://www.uniquecarsales.com.au/pls/carsa...mp;photo_flag=1

PS. Focus is to be on being low maint... if anyone knows any reasons why any of these cars are considered high maint (apart from the fact they are Skylines that is LOL) please speak up.

R34s when lightly modded are not high maintenance at all - in my opinion. Maintenance costs over the last 3 years have been very similar to my previous car a Liberty.

Things you will go through fast: tyres, brake pads. Services every 5k km have been sub $200.

If under 30, insurance will be a killer, budget close to $2k for full comprehensive even with a good driving record.

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    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. 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    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
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