Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Diff Bushes

Brood
 Share

Recommended Posts

Brood Contributor

Brood

Posted
Posted

Can anyone tell me if you have to remove the whole rear member in order to change the 2 bushes that the diff attaches to (which is part of the rear member)??  My bushes are totally shot and I'm thinking is an easy task to remove just the diff or a headache to remove the whole rear member.  Any advice/help would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184097-r32-gtr-diff-bushes/
Share on other sites
skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted

Believe me, when you change the diff bushes you will notice a complete lack of axle hop. Call Unique Auto Sport, they get them made up or imported. Think I saw one of the traders advertising them also. I only changed the front ones but car is quieter and no more clicking when I take off.

noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

Uniqueautosports do em mine arrived today advertised as noltek (spelling?) but when they arrived they were some brand I had never heard of look okay though !!!!

Come as a kit with the two on the rear subframe and two either side of the front (nose) of the diff

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Yeah I got these from UAS this week as well about $90. Both front and rear bushes, with new crush tubes for the front. Front looks easy to change but rears look like a disaster to do with the subframe in the car - I might give them a miss

They are from the states, made for 300zx but the diff and subframe are the same.

Noltec have a part number listed but they didn't have any.

Public Enemy Community Regular

Public Enemy

Posted
Posted

When i did my pinion bushes (Front of diff) i got the noltec ones from WA suspension. Believe it or not they had them in stock. If your still chasing some give them a call they may still have some.

W.A Suspensions

34 Howe St

Osborne Park WA 6017

Ph. 08 9244 2211

Fax. 08 9446 7765

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...