New Hks Evc Install - Help!

[nuffsaid]

Hi all

I had the new HKS EVC 5 installed a couple of days ago.

Car is a R34 GTT with the following power mods - split dump, hiflow cat, and fujitsubo catback, apexi pod

The EVC was tuned very nicely on the dyno and so I thought I was all set. 9.5psi on the low setting 11psi on the high setting. I dont want to go any higher.

Problem is I am getting a peak reading of about 11.7psi on very cold nights when I floor 1st or 2nd gear.

In 3rd gear, Ill get about 10.9psi max.

I didnt try 4th gear on the street.

Strange this is I watched the ebc tune on the dyno, and at the low setting of 9.5psi, it held it fine and completely flat all the way when the tuner did many repeat runs in 4th gear. Ambient temps were about 18degrees and the tuner looked like he did a terrific job.

I havent bothered to try flooring it on the high setting on cold nights yet in case I blow something up.

Any ideas why it would be doing this? It's spiking by the looks of things on cold nights in low gears, I thought EBCs, especially the new HKS one would be fine and would correct boost for things such as differing air temperatures.

AND ANOTHER QUESTION

When the tuner set it up for 11psi, the dyno run shows that the boost will hit this amount, but then it tapers off at the tail end of the boost line in the dyno sheet.

There is also a big dip in the power curve, my guess, fuel cut by the stock ECU.

Why is there a poewr curve dip and why would the boost (blue line) taper off like that? Stock turbo just cant keep it up? Tuner struggled to keep that tail end up.

See attached dyno sheet (red line is low setting, blue line is high setting)

Thanks all

[nuffsaid]

Does anyone else get similar behaviour?

[nuffsaid]

Does anyone find the setup and results strange?

[intercpt]

Hey Mate,

i've got the new EVC too...

It seems to spike alittle, but it sorts itself out eventually.

On low boost its steady as, but at 1 bar it spikes abit...

I'm still mucking around with it tho, alot of features to try

What settings are you running? (ie. Offsets).

Do you use the Map Correction Mode? (RPM & Speed Inputs)

[BAMR33]

.8 bar what you're running = 11.6psi, i'd say it's pretty close to the money. Boost looks to drop off pretty bad, might want to try cleaning the solenoid as ebc's as supposed to hold a flat line when operating correctly.

[nuffsaid]

The controller and solenoid is brand new so I dont know whether there is anything to clean.

Is the power drop some spark issue? or the stock ECU dropping back for safety reasons? It holds straight fine on 0.65bar on the dyno, but dont know why the tuner couldnt get the tail end of 0.75 bar to hold flat, perhaps the turbo is struggling to hold the boost? I dont know and am quite puzzled by it.

[infamous_t]

Got a FMIC? or still got the Side mount... I'm thinking air intake temp is the issue and the side mount probably doesn't cut the mustard.

Looking about a few ppl eliminated the problem when changing from side mount to FMIC

[nuffsaid]

Yea still got the stock SMIC on.

After approx 30 dyno runs (some cooling down in between though) I can see why a FMIC is needed

That doesnt explain why the boost at 0.75 bar isnt holding though.

[T04GTR]

that boost graph is a rubbish set up. who ever set it up doent know how to do it. a better result could be had with a basic bleed valve controler. ie 120 dollars.

unfortunatly you are going to have to start over with the set up. first off turn it off and see what the boost is of the turbo. then follow the instructions. im not to familiar with the hks ones.

[paulr33]

i agree with dave

its laggy as all hell

i dont think its setup correctly

you should be able to build 0.75bar by 80km/h

[nuffsaid]

Argh dammit! can anyone help tune it for me? Its annoying not being able to make the most of the product!

[T04GTR]

for a start read the instructions. all of them. and you shouldnt have a issue.

[Guilt-Toy]

remember that these skylines dont use a "boost cut" they use a "air flow cut" so really on the higher boost setting the ecu is entering rich and retard mode and is dropping off the power.

A boost controller is just as good as its tuner. Also the car will try and run more boost in really cold weather and it will take a bit for the boost controller to bring the boost back down.

I dont think the situation is as bad as everything makes it out to be. I would be happy with the low boost setting with your small side mount intercooler & stock ecu and rest assured you will have much better results with a Power FC & a FMIC.

My advice to you is to leave it on the low boost setting and the colder it is the more power you will get as well.

I dont think it is really that bad. BTW it could be a dud actuator spring that does not have enough power to keep the flap closed long enough to make the boost the boost controller is trying to make. (these controllers are programed to go to a lower boost setting first and then bring the boost up to the desired set level.. so better its running lower then higher with your ceramic / plastic turbo setups that are on these cars)

Who was the tuner ? can you PM me please?

cheers

Edited September 10, 2007 by Guilt-Toy

[nuffsaid]

Hey Mate,

i've got the new EVC too...

It seems to spike alittle, but it sorts itself out eventually.

On low boost its steady as, but at 1 bar it spikes abit...

I'm still mucking around with it tho, alot of features to try

What settings are you running? (ie. Offsets).

Do you use the Map Correction Mode? (RPM & Speed Inputs)

Okay all

Just looked at the settings (HKS call DUTY = CORRECTION, and call GAIN= OFFSET (From my brand translation skills hahah))

Basically the target boost for setting A is set to 65kpa, CORRECTION 100 and OFFSET 100 (100 is the default, range is from 1% to 199%)

Basically the target boost for setting B is set to 75kpa, CORRECTION 100 and OFFSET 100 (100 is the default, range is from 1% to 199%)

MAP correction mode (RPM and throttle position is connected but not being used because the correction is all set to 0kpa or 100%, again the default for this feature)

So say at 3000 rpm, at 50% throttle, the CORRECTION boost is 0kpa, the OFFSET is 100 default. This is the same for all other points.

This leads me to think the EVC has terrific tuning ability, but just wasnt utilised.

What does everyone think?

[nuffsaid]

Spoke to tuner, he said that the nature of the HKS boost controllers is that they hold the wastegate closed until the target boost is reached and then the boost controller starts controlling the boost. In other words, the car while boosting up is relying on the car's natural boosting ability and hence this is why is it slow.

The new HKS EVC can make the boost faster by adjusting the gain/offset at a particular RPM, so I might try that. Ill increase the gain at 2000rpm and see what it does there. There are 5 RPM points that can be set, what would be best if my redline is 6800RPM? Tuner has set the 5 points at 3000,4000,5000,6000,7500, but should I set it to 2000,3000,4000,5000,6000 rpm?

Also the spikes in cold weather and low gears are probably due to the load on the engine. I was informed to set the gain to 95% and see whether this minimises the spikes. Ill give this a go too.

Explanation of dyno graph from tuner below:

[paulr33]

i disagree

if the controller is doing what the tuner says and staying closed until target boost is reached then you should have the best build curve possible

it should ramp to your target boost well before 3 grand on the stock turbo. if its not something is wrong, possible include;

leaking wastegate

busted actuator - or its pre-opening a touch

boost leak

engine tune is crap

having the controller keep the wastegate closed until target boost is reached is the same as having it disconnected, and running unlimited boost

youll have the best boost curve possible. maybe sort that out first, then try the controller. that is unplug the wastegate line and see what the curve on the dyno looks like. if its the same then your gate is leaking or its preloaded / opening early. if it ramps to like 1 bar at 3 grand then its spot on, be careful you dont go over 1 bar youll go bang

focus on fixing the gate issue, then youll find the controller works awesome

[nuffsaid]

Thanks Paul! its beginning to make some sense now.

This is my old dyno (pre boost controller a year ago)

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/6576/r34dynokn2.jpg

It seems to do fairly okay without the boost controller, full boost at 130km.hr by the looks of things

So is my wastegate stuffed just by looking at this older dyno run?

[paulr33]

Thanks Paul! its beginning to make some sense now.

This is my old dyno (pre boost controller a year ago)

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/6576/r34dynokn2.jpg

It seems to do fairly okay without the boost controller, full boost at 130km.hr by the looks of things

So is my wastegate stuffed just by looking at this older dyno run?

yeah full boost by 130km/h is terrible dude

try unplugging the wastegate signal line and try it on the street

if it ramps to 1 bar instantly or within say 2 secondw then your controller is stupid/broken

if its the same, then your gate is leaking, its always open or opening prematurely for no reason

if you do unplug the vac line, which you can do yourself, BE CAREFUL

when you load it up in a gear, watch your BOOST GUAGE

dont let it ramp to 1 bar for a long time, a quick spike is OK but dont leave it like that and trash around

on my car in say 2nd 3rd or 4th on the street i can build 0.85 bar in about 2 seconds at the most if i nail the throttle

the needle on the stock guage should rise fairly quickly to your target, 2-3 seconds at the most.

it shouldnt take like 10 seconds progressively to rise

[Beer Baron]

boost should not be still climbing all the way through the rev range like yours does, especially to only achieve 10spi on a standard turbo. something is wrong with the set-up for sure.

[nuffsaid]

I'd like to try but I would have no idea what I am doing! haha

Wouldnt Nissan setup the gate to leak a little that way the power doesnt come on in a huge rush? ie. have a little boost creep?

And am I right in saying that the EBC should hold the wastegate shut and get around this stock setup and eliminate boost creep?