Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Stock Fuel Pump Compared To Walbro Gss-342

RBwhatever

By RBwhatever,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just checked mine now. Its sit on 9.5v at idle. We held the revs at 3000rpm when stationary and it sat on 13.5v. So it seems as though if it was under full load it would hit 14v.

The wires I have aren't all that big. Maybe its got more to do with amps more than volts.

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

The Mafia
The Mafia

I really don't know dude. There is a table somewhere that I have seen, and I'm pretty sure that it neesd to have "HP" in its model number. I've seen a lot of these pumps being flogged off as high pre

Posted Images

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just read the thread on here about doing the direct feed mod. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=91993

It seems it's not really needed for R33's.

So if in fact it does start to run lean at high power outputs it's just running out of puff.

Such was the case with you Jono. It started to run out of puff around 300rwkw yes?

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted (edited)

The pump shouldn't really be rated on power, but pressure.

As you can see in the flow chart, the more boost, the less flow it will be able to push against it.

Remember, the skyline rail is 42psi, and if you are running 18psi, then thats 60psi the pump has to push. As you can see, it runs out of flow beyond 60psi.

But power wise, I wouldn't go anything over 270rwkw, and 15psi, as anymore will stress the pump causing it to fail early.

Edited by The Mafia
RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
  • Author
Posted

But if in fact the GSS-342 is a high pressure pump as everyone seems to state, it should be capable of pushing 80psi of fuel with decent flow with ease.

I don't quite understand the relation of boost pressure to fuel pressure though. I can understand more fuel pressure results in less flow. Is it for example, 18psi on any turbo will result in 60psi of fuel pressure?

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted (edited)

well, think about it.. there is 42psi in the fuel rail to maintian the normal pressure behind the injectors. What about boost pushing back up the injectors?

The fuel pump needs to supply 42psi to the fuel rail, and then another 18psi to "counter act" the boost.

That means a total of 60psi, to maintain 42psi in the fuel rail.

NOw have a look at the 255lph walbro in the chart I have supplied - as soon as the fuell pressure goes above 60psi, the fuel flow drops dramaticly.

And yes, any turbo running 18psi, a T88 or a GT2530. Obviously these turbos would need different flow requirments as the engine with the T88 is flowing more air and require more fuel injector duty cycle (injectors are open for long periods) and needs more fuel flow.

The Lower Specced walbro runs 255lph at 42psi.

I got a Nismo 275lph at 70~psi. BIG difference.

Higher flow at Higher pressure means the pump has more "torque" and can handle larger fuel loads.

Edited by The Mafia
  • 2 years later...
seriesII Mentor

seriesII

Posted
Posted (edited)

Bringing this from the dead.. thought i'd save a new thread..

Can some one help me out abit.. just put in a walbro 341 in a r33 s2 gtst.. runs great.. feels much beta to me.. but maby thats the idea in my head i put one in?..

any ways.. it fixed abit of the issue with 10psi boost in lower revs.. i would normaly feel like im cuting in and out.. Will the stock fuel regulator be ok for 200rwkw?.. with stock injectors?.. or do i need to change the regulator or injectors if i have extra cash.. thanx

oh and.. can i buy a new fuel pump filter sock, the standard nissan one anywere?.. or do i need to order from nissan?.. thanx

Edited by seriesII
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Walbro do a Nissan kit which presumably comes with a new sock so maybe try your Walbro supplier for the sock. Stock fpr and injectors should be fine for 200kw. Rewire your Walbro as per the DIY threads - not just for more flow up top but for longer pump life.

seriesII Mentor

seriesII

Posted
Posted
Walbro do a Nissan kit which presumably comes with a new sock so maybe try your Walbro supplier for the sock. Stock fpr and injectors should be fine for 200kw. Rewire your Walbro as per the DIY threads - not just for more flow up top but for longer pump life.

hi ,thanx for the help.. i got a nissan walbro kit.. but the sock is sooo short it makes the nissan one look like god.. when your saying rewire, you mean to increase the voltae right?.. working on that next.. might be a silly question, but what open wire do i touch with the multi to see whats volts my pump is running at?.. thanx

  • 9 months later...
rondofj Veteran

rondofj

Posted
Posted

actually its 2 metal crimp type connectors with a blue insualtion cover around it - u crimp both pieces to the ends of the 2 wires and then those connectors - male and female, click in together.. Cant find pics of this on the net - wonder if its safe?? like fire safe as it will be in-tank??

rondofj Veteran

rondofj

Posted
Posted

I knew I was missing something - no air! Becoming a bit of a bonehead now I guess - actually I think there r pockets of air in fuel, water etc, how do fish take in air through their gills? .. Who cares as long as my fuel tank doesnt catch fire lol..

rondofj Veteran

rondofj

Posted
Posted

Can the pump run without the sock - I'm just worried about my sock falling off, I used the stock sock with the stock pump isolator cap as I didnt get a sock with my walbro (lost the retaining pin) - it is tight now but has a bit of play and I'm worried bout that.. The bosh 040 install in the DIY didnt go about installing the sock..

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Can the pump run without the sock - I'm just worried about my sock falling off, I used the stock sock with the stock pump isolator cap as I didnt get a sock with my walbro (lost the retaining pin) - it is tight now but has a bit of play and I'm worried bout that.. The bosh 040 install in the DIY didnt go about installing the sock..

The sock stops particles getting into the pump and causing damage. I have about 10 of them here, pity you're not local. Just fit it like it is for now and pick another one up later.

  • 2 months later...
Julzillionaire Contributor

Julzillionaire

Posted
Posted

Can the pump run without the sock - I'm just worried about my sock falling off, I used the stock sock with the stock pump isolator cap as I didnt get a sock with my walbro (lost the retaining pin) - it is tight now but has a bit of play and I'm worried bout that.. The bosh 040 install in the DIY didnt go about installing the sock..

How did you go fitting it? I read somewhere on this forum a guy buying a standard Falcon V8 sock from autobarn.

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...