Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

haha that's funny. My stockish RB25DET cuts the fuel around 7000rpm :D but i guess it's A) safety and B)pointless to go harder as the stock turb is outta breath by then anyway.

Does it sound good over 8000rpm? I reckon it would be as angry as a Type R, hopefully angrier with an extra two pistons spinning around.

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

haha that's funny. My stockish RB25DET cuts the fuel around 7000rpm :D but i guess it's A) safety and B)pointless to go harder as the stock turb is outta breath by then anyway.

Does it sound good over 8000rpm? I reckon it would be as angry as a Type R, hopefully angrier with an extra two pistons spinning around.

Yeah no point reving them that hard when they are stock.

They sound fair quiet on boost but once it gets up about 6,000 rpm and above you can hear the engine struggling and whining.

But again I haven't rev'd it that hard too many times so haven't taken much noticed.

I'd rather hear it on limiter!! :P

Edited by abu

From what Roy has said im pretty sure his has seen 8500 on numerous occasions!

And its not like his motor is lightly tuned either.

BUt prob wait till he comes in and drops his 2c :D

But i feel the same as well as you guys... I remember going to Launch my car once and i forgot to put it in gear :S

I dont know what it revved to but it did make a odd noise, like not something breaking and not flutter and not my BOV... Motor still seems A-OK though!

From what Roy has said im pretty sure his has seen 8500 on numerous occasions!

And its not like his motor is lightly tuned either.

BUt prob wait till he comes in and drops his 2c :D

But i feel the same as well as you guys... I remember going to Launch my car once and i forgot to put it in gear :S

I dont know what it revved to but it did make a odd noise, like not something breaking and not flutter and not my BOV... Motor still seems A-OK though!

Hahaha revving it on idle to 8,000 rpm odd wont cause damage if its just there and back. But constantly holding it there, or under load say in gear it will cause some damage, but depends on the situation I guess, and things such as tune.

Yep also keen to see what Roy has to say. I know he revs his motor hard on occasions but that’s tuned motor. I need more feed back on a stock motor :P

i've hit the limiter a few times. it just cuts out all power. just back off abit and get back on it.

mines a std rb20det auto with std ecu and my safc reads about 300rpm lower then what the tacho reads.

7992 is where my factory limiter was (according to my old R-FIT) So 7,800 sounds about sopt on.

Yeah thats what I thought.

If it kicked in 7,800 rpm that would be awesome!

Edited by abu
Std rb20's with the rev limit raised to 8900 love the limiter all day long.

ps wolf ecus are shit for an rb application.

pfc remap ftw

Any reason why WOLF is shit? Would be keen to hear the explanation behind that.

After market ECU's are only as good as the tuner, that goes for any ECUs including PFC and REMAPs.

8,900 rpm is way to high, maybe if its been modified and tuned.. but still why the fk would you rev it to 8,900 rpm?

Edited by abu
Hahaha revving it on idle to 8,000 rpm odd wont cause damage if its just there and back. But constantly holding it there, or under load say in gear it will cause some damage, but depends on the situation I guess, and things such as tune.

Yep also keen to see what Roy has to say. I know he revs his motor hard on occasions but that’s tuned motor. I need more feed back on a stock motor :rofl:

LOL...my engine is a $600 short motor from EKW, it was built by Nissan and tuned by a built fella. But the motor is std.

As for rev limit, i would stick with about 7,000rpm and i am confident the thing will last a lifetime. If the thing doesnt breathe that well up high and drops off power, then dont rev it...it hurts your acceleration and the engine needlessly

Some thinking of mine about abusing RB20s :wacko:

Dont rev the engine harder then you need to in order to fall into the meaty range of the power band on a gear change. Make sure your fuelling and ignition is on the money at the higher rpms and the engine isnt pinging. Also, make sure you are not getting your water or oil temps too high (water 95deg C and oil 100 deg C) To some that may be low but when i see those temps i tend to back off the motor and drop the revs well back to let it all cool down.

So, that all said. I have used 8,600rpm (According to PFc handset) and 1.5bar of boost in my engine. Its a credit to my tuner and the reliability of a std motor at 260rwkws. I typically run a rev limit of 8,000rpm and around 1.3bar.

You can see in the attached graph which shows rpm that even with a reasonable sized turbo the power does fall off at 7,000rpm

gallery_462_50_8431.jpg

So i am to keep my car's revs between 5,500 and 7,000rpm as it never drops below 240rwkws. So at motorkhanas i bounce off the rev limit a fair bit as i am in 1st. Occasionally in 2nd gear. At the track i generally touch the limiter if its a slow corner and 2nd gear as i need to wait that moment until road speed actually catches up with wheel speed (touch of wheelspin)

But apart from that i generally shift up at around 7,300rpm when into 3rd and 4th gears etc etc. When at Sandown and Winton there are a few corners where if i give 2nd gear hell the cars gearing allows me to avoid a gear change and get great drive / power on exits. So when at Winton and Sandown i will up the rev limit to 8,600rpm and i get damn near it on my 2nd to 3rd shift, occassionally hitting it if i get a bit of wheelspin. But at a place like Phillip island where its all 3rd gear stuff and higher i tend to only rev it to a bit over 7,000rpm before changing gear.

So, yeh they rev nice and handle the revs and boost well. But as i want this motor to last as long as possible so i can find out how much abuse and power it can make ...i do tend to apply some logic to how i drive the thing...though most ppl think im just a butcher :(

This is 8,600rpm (maybe 8,800 cant remember) and 1.3bar

and a lets

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...