Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

I am about to purchase a new fiberglass Trust Style front bar from J Racing Australia (in Fishwick ACT) and wondered if any of you had had dealings with this company?

I was hoping someone could tell me if sending them $500 electronically was a wise move (given that there is never a 100% garantee with anything)

Thanks

Guy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184730-j-racing/
Share on other sites

There are a few topics in ACT section on NS.com. J-racing gets a mixed response, some say there ok, others say their dodgy and overpriced..

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=237660

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=229695

Edited by Just_Lookin
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184730-j-racing/#findComment-3343693
Share on other sites

Hi Guys

I am about to purchase a new fiberglass Trust Style front bar from J Racing Australia (in Fishwick ACT) and wondered if any of you had had dealings with this company?

I was hoping someone could tell me if sending them $500 electronically was a wise move (given that there is never a 100% garantee with anything)

Thanks

Guy

$500 for a trust style or a genuine trust bar? there's a big difference and make sure you clarify that before buying it. for $500 i'd hope to hell it's a genuine, not a 'trust style' front bar.

J racing are known for their widebody work as somebody else stated, but they're also known for their pricing and have a rep of being the place that ignorant boy-racer noobs go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184730-j-racing/#findComment-3343888
Share on other sites

A genuine trust bar for $500 LOL

The genuine bottom lip is $800 alone

The bar itself is $450 for a glass copy (i need to add on freight costs as well), and if the quality is OK, this seems to be a good price (many fiberglass bars from other manufacturers are more expensive and the quality can be questionable)

They are also one of the few shops that make this particular bar in Australia (and they have it in stock)

Edited by 4door_Sleeper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184730-j-racing/#findComment-3343936
Share on other sites

A genuine trust bar for $500 LOL

The genuine bottom lip is $800 alone

The bar itself is $450 for a glass copy (i need to add on freight costs as well), and if the quality is OK, this seems to be a good price (many fiberglass bars from other manufacturers are more expensive and the quality can be questionable)

They are also one of the few shops that make this particular bar in Australia (and they have it in stock)

$800 for a lower lip? regardless of what brand it is, that's ludicrous. i know genuine GTR parts are excessively pricey, but damn

glad i don't drive a skyline and have a penchant for gucci name brand bodykits lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184730-j-racing/#findComment-3344048
Share on other sites

Hi Guys

I am about to purchase a new fiberglass Trust Style front bar from J Racing Australia (in Fishwick ACT) and wondered if any of you had had dealings with this company?

I was hoping someone could tell me if sending them $500 electronically was a wise move (given that there is never a 100% garantee with anything)

Thanks

Guy

I think your money is safe and you may have better luck than I did. Will he let you hold some cash back for final inspection? If so, I would do that just to make sure it doesn't turn up damaged like mine, oops too late... I'd paid for it. Then had to pay someone to repair. He also promised overnight, 10 days later nothing and he wouldn't even return my calls. I wasn't happy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184730-j-racing/#findComment-3344555
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...