Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most aggressive I've seen are Jase's, which I think are 19x9.5+22. Too angry for my liking, and the camber on the rear!

Thanks for the tip Alex. I'll go home and measure. Apparently 8.5+30 extends 34mm, which sounds fine. I can always try and test fit Saturday anyway.

Wheels I'm looking at are a good price, but they're pretty beat up. Looking at buying them and running them with decent tyres for 12 months, then getting them cleaned up and powdercoated. Bronze CE28s, should look good I think, but better when I get them powdercoated black! :devil:

My car isn't that low Jase! I don't know what you're talking about :whistling:

Looked mental when I saw it, especially with the stretched tyres!

BTW Found this: http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp

Great tool to actually see what's going on. Very easy since Alex posted the standard wheel specs. Thanks!

I've found a really nicely designed rim that should work quite nicely on an M35 Stagea from Avant Garde. Different design to jasevr4's, these are the M368 model:

http://www.avantgardewheels.com/m368.php

For the Stagea they have one definite fitment option of 19x8.5+35, but also a 19x9.5+40 which I'm unsure would work. Outside clearance would be fairly aggressive, but unsure how the inside clearance would go as well as full lock-to-lock interference. The rim seen on the front of this Lexus shows the correct design (as opposed to the full concave version) of the 19x8.5+35.

6664614393_6db7296f41_b.jpg

Fronts: Avant Garde M368 in Dolphin Grey at 19x8.5+35

6664607779_8dc2626f99_b.jpg

Fronts: Avant Garde M368 in Dolphin Grey at 19x8.5+35

Nissan Australia, RHDJapan (send them an email, they'll list it and give you 5% discount), Jesse Streeter, Import Monster

Part numbers are (left to right design in the pic below);

G4911- AQ000

G4911- AQ010

G4911- AQ020

post-31842-0-23455900-1327116035_thumb.jpg

Going back a page there was mention of the iPod adaptor for the standard OEM deck. The Stagea we've just bought has the single DIN unit in place, but I have a question about the FM radio etc. Would it just be easier to just get a replacement head unit (HU), rather than hop up the factory HU with the iPod adaptor and frequency shifter?

You will have to dismantle your dash either way, so it is all up what you want.

If you just want to play your iPod, get the PA15-NIS adaptor. If you want to replace your entire head unit, might as well get something decent in there that does everything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...