Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Info

Brazen

By Brazen,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Only if you cut the bracing under the bonnet, it's alloy too remember.

You should design one that goes to the firwall and bolts up there before meeting back at the other tower. Sort of like the accord ones

  • Replies 2.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

nickcorr
nickcorr

Skyline Registrations in Japan: Bodystyle/Engine 3.7 Coupe 2.5 Sedan 3.5 Sedan 3.7 Sedan 3.7 SUV________Total Market cars... 09_____________983_______3,398______20_______860_____1,601_________

andy65b
andy65b

Not a bad result..

And
And

Ok, guys from Moscow approached me today. They have a "demo" version ready, now they need a brave person in Perth who's got a car DVD based Xanai unit (M35 Stagea or Skyline up to 2005). This gotta

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
stagman Community Regular

stagman

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Bit of an issue with my M35. I have recently installed a shift kit and plenum spacer. After instaliing the shift kit... No problems. Car is working as advertised...although a very loud thud when kicking down gears around 100kmh's.

However, after instaling the plenum spacer, the car's idle is very rough. It jumps and drops about 100rpm and the car shakes a fair bit. Has anyone else had this problem? Yesterday it managed to throw a ECL however I could not get the code from it. Trying to count the flashes just about caused an epileptic shock... So i reset it and the light has gone.

Any ideas?

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Sounds like an air leak to me. Certainly not something you should be experiencing after installing the phenolic spacer.

I did experience a bit of "hunting" (+/- 50rpm) when idling, but that was when I had the alloy spacer in there. None of this with the phenolic spacer.

stagman Community Regular

stagman

Posted
Posted

I have the same issue. I'm thinking it must be a vac line somewhere.

Yeah, I thought the same and i did have a cracked vac line running from the intake to the solenoid that i broke. However replaced that vac line and still have the same problem. I am starting to think i didnt do a bolt or something to the correct torque (19nm?) so I will go back and tighten everything up and see if i can further trouble shoot this problem.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

It doesn't need to be too tight, as a warning. From some instructions I've got for a VQ35de, the torque that the lower collector should be torqued down with is equililant to what you would get with one of those screwdriver socket thingos. Just hand held, not even a ratchet or anything. Don't strip the threads.

I'd keep looking for a loose line, one car I know used to blow them off when using aerostart. However, it could also be a folded over gasket or something really simple like that.

Another trick with intake leaks is to spray some brake cleaner or something round the joints in the manifold to see if that effects the idle- if it does, you have a leak.

  • 2 weeks later...
impul535w Community Regular

impul535w

Posted
Posted

Q: Everynow and then I get this fully feel in the brake peddle, it's like it fights me when I put my foot down and have to put quite hard in order for it to stop quickly... Any thoughts people. I thought it may be a pad/rotor issue but as I have replaced both I'm back to square one.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Q: Everynow and then I get this fully feel in the brake peddle, it's like it fights me when I put my foot down and have to put quite hard in order for it to stop quickly... Any thoughts people. I thought it may be a pad/rotor issue but as I have replaced both I'm back to square one.

You might have siezed/bent caliper pins; or a sicking piston in a caliper.

Caliper pins can cause all sorts of odd brake issues.

Edited by Daleo
impul535w Community Regular

impul535w

Posted
Posted

You might have siezed/bent caliper pins; or a sicking piston in a caliper.

Caliper pins can cause all sorts of odd brake issues.

How would one check these parts?

Also what is funny is that it only seems to do it once when first driving it, after that it seems ok...

0t1 Contributor

0t1

Posted
Posted

How would one check these parts?

Also what is funny is that it only seems to do it once when first driving it, after that it seems ok...

Sounds like something is heating up and expanding to seal the leak.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

How would one check these parts?

Also what is funny is that it only seems to do it once when first driving it, after that it seems ok...

Jack up/ jack stand- remove wheel, remove brake pads, inspect piston, make sure it goes in and out and shit. Look at the pins, make sure they are straight and I think they should have a little grease on em.

Could be a suspect master cylinder seal as well.

impul535w Community Regular

impul535w

Posted
Posted

Jack up/ jack stand- remove wheel, remove brake pads, inspect piston, make sure it goes in and out and shit. Look at the pins, make sure they are straight and I think they should have a little grease on em.

Could be a suspect master cylinder seal as well.

This may sounds funny but how would one get the piston to come out? Just put my foot on the brake with the pads out and caliper off?

Also one thing I did notice was that the brake fluid resivour was full, way full, up to the neck. Would this be an issue?

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

yeah, you don't really want to piston to come out the full way. I haven't done the rear pads yet so haven't looked at them, but sometimes the rear pistons are slotted and have to be turned to retract back into the housing, sometimes they just slide so you can use a G Clamp.

So take them off, and inspect the slide pins, pads and piston. Then make sure you empty out some brake fluid from the reservoir, just down to the minimum line, before you try to get the piston back in. If it has groves, it will spin- someone should jump in and confirm if it does. So turn it in a little way- this will force fluid back into the reservoir. Check the level, and add new fluid if needed. re-assemble, start car and let it idle, then pump up the brake pedal and make sure the piston comes back out and clamps, and you have effective braking- at least then you know that end is good.

Its a bit funny that the fluid is right up the the neck. Usually fluid drops as the pads are being worn, and the pistons push further out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...