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M35 Info

Brazen

By Brazen,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Only if you cut the bracing under the bonnet, it's alloy too remember.

You should design one that goes to the firwall and bolts up there before meeting back at the other tower. Sort of like the accord ones

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nickcorr
nickcorr

Skyline Registrations in Japan: Bodystyle/Engine 3.7 Coupe 2.5 Sedan 3.5 Sedan 3.7 Sedan 3.7 SUV________Total Market cars... 09_____________983_______3,398______20_______860_____1,601_________

andy65b
andy65b

Not a bad result..

And
And

Ok, guys from Moscow approached me today. They have a "demo" version ready, now they need a brave person in Perth who's got a car DVD based Xanai unit (M35 Stagea or Skyline up to 2005). This gotta

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  • 2 weeks later...
stagman Community Regular

stagman

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Bit of an issue with my M35. I have recently installed a shift kit and plenum spacer. After instaliing the shift kit... No problems. Car is working as advertised...although a very loud thud when kicking down gears around 100kmh's.

However, after instaling the plenum spacer, the car's idle is very rough. It jumps and drops about 100rpm and the car shakes a fair bit. Has anyone else had this problem? Yesterday it managed to throw a ECL however I could not get the code from it. Trying to count the flashes just about caused an epileptic shock... So i reset it and the light has gone.

Any ideas?

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

Sounds like an air leak to me. Certainly not something you should be experiencing after installing the phenolic spacer.

I did experience a bit of "hunting" (+/- 50rpm) when idling, but that was when I had the alloy spacer in there. None of this with the phenolic spacer.

stagman Community Regular

stagman

Posted
Posted

I have the same issue. I'm thinking it must be a vac line somewhere.

Yeah, I thought the same and i did have a cracked vac line running from the intake to the solenoid that i broke. However replaced that vac line and still have the same problem. I am starting to think i didnt do a bolt or something to the correct torque (19nm?) so I will go back and tighten everything up and see if i can further trouble shoot this problem.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

It doesn't need to be too tight, as a warning. From some instructions I've got for a VQ35de, the torque that the lower collector should be torqued down with is equililant to what you would get with one of those screwdriver socket thingos. Just hand held, not even a ratchet or anything. Don't strip the threads.

I'd keep looking for a loose line, one car I know used to blow them off when using aerostart. However, it could also be a folded over gasket or something really simple like that.

Another trick with intake leaks is to spray some brake cleaner or something round the joints in the manifold to see if that effects the idle- if it does, you have a leak.

  • 2 weeks later...
impul535w Community Regular

impul535w

Posted
Posted

Q: Everynow and then I get this fully feel in the brake peddle, it's like it fights me when I put my foot down and have to put quite hard in order for it to stop quickly... Any thoughts people. I thought it may be a pad/rotor issue but as I have replaced both I'm back to square one.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Q: Everynow and then I get this fully feel in the brake peddle, it's like it fights me when I put my foot down and have to put quite hard in order for it to stop quickly... Any thoughts people. I thought it may be a pad/rotor issue but as I have replaced both I'm back to square one.

You might have siezed/bent caliper pins; or a sicking piston in a caliper.

Caliper pins can cause all sorts of odd brake issues.

Edited by Daleo
impul535w Community Regular

impul535w

Posted
Posted

You might have siezed/bent caliper pins; or a sicking piston in a caliper.

Caliper pins can cause all sorts of odd brake issues.

How would one check these parts?

Also what is funny is that it only seems to do it once when first driving it, after that it seems ok...

0t1 Contributor

0t1

Posted
Posted

How would one check these parts?

Also what is funny is that it only seems to do it once when first driving it, after that it seems ok...

Sounds like something is heating up and expanding to seal the leak.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

How would one check these parts?

Also what is funny is that it only seems to do it once when first driving it, after that it seems ok...

Jack up/ jack stand- remove wheel, remove brake pads, inspect piston, make sure it goes in and out and shit. Look at the pins, make sure they are straight and I think they should have a little grease on em.

Could be a suspect master cylinder seal as well.

impul535w Community Regular

impul535w

Posted
Posted

Jack up/ jack stand- remove wheel, remove brake pads, inspect piston, make sure it goes in and out and shit. Look at the pins, make sure they are straight and I think they should have a little grease on em.

Could be a suspect master cylinder seal as well.

This may sounds funny but how would one get the piston to come out? Just put my foot on the brake with the pads out and caliper off?

Also one thing I did notice was that the brake fluid resivour was full, way full, up to the neck. Would this be an issue?

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

yeah, you don't really want to piston to come out the full way. I haven't done the rear pads yet so haven't looked at them, but sometimes the rear pistons are slotted and have to be turned to retract back into the housing, sometimes they just slide so you can use a G Clamp.

So take them off, and inspect the slide pins, pads and piston. Then make sure you empty out some brake fluid from the reservoir, just down to the minimum line, before you try to get the piston back in. If it has groves, it will spin- someone should jump in and confirm if it does. So turn it in a little way- this will force fluid back into the reservoir. Check the level, and add new fluid if needed. re-assemble, start car and let it idle, then pump up the brake pedal and make sure the piston comes back out and clamps, and you have effective braking- at least then you know that end is good.

Its a bit funny that the fluid is right up the the neck. Usually fluid drops as the pads are being worn, and the pistons push further out.

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