Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R33 series II with the following mods

FMIC

Upgraded turbo

Alloy radiator

Nismo Fuel pump

PFC

AVC-R

etc

Stock injectors are maxing out so I want to upgrade these (although not absolutely necessary as I am not having any issues regarding knock etc).

To replace injectors (Nismo 555's)+ splitfires + FPR is going to cost me $2500 for parts & tune

Is it worth spending the extra $1000 to add cams (tomei 256's) to the list as well?

I am currently making 270 rwkw on stock internals, and do not really want to rebuild for quite a while. Will cams give me enough noticable mid range without increasing the peak power too much?

The car is only driven on the streets and I am after response not peak power.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

im not an expert and this is just what i gather from reading other stuff but with a tune cams can make a fair difference, seen an advert for some HKS cams for supra the other day claiming a 100hp increase after tune

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3361011
Share on other sites

To replace injectors (Nismo 555's)+ splitfires + FPR is going to cost me $2500 for parts & tune

Thats a bit rich!!!

Injectors are around what - $750.

Splitfires - $550

And you dont need the FPR.

With a retune, that puts it around $1700, leaving 400 for the tune which as you have one there already.

Maybe add in $150 for labour for fitting the injectors so $1850 at worst

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3361043
Share on other sites

Thats a bit rich!!!

Injectors are around what - $750.

Splitfires - $550

And you dont need the FPR.

With a retune, that puts it around $1700, leaving 400 for the tune which as you have one there already.

Maybe add in $150 for labour for fitting the injectors so $1850 at worst

$150 for labour to fit injectors??? That's pretty cheap. Where can you get that from? Or all workshops charge that rate? :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3361116
Share on other sites

Well its not a hard task, make it $200 if you want.

Im helping a mate change injectors in his EVO this weekend, will see how long it takes, but i dont see it being a mission

Either way its a far cry from 2.5k :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3361117
Share on other sites

If you check the DIY section on the injectors, it's step by step. definately worth a crack.

Also, someone quoted in there they previously had a workshop quote for $350 to replace em! Woah !

So the prices will vary as you shop around.

I'll do it for $200..tehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3361173
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies, I was not going to worry about the FPR, and I know I wont see any gain from it, but I would rather replace the stock one with a new unit and run the same pressure so I know that it wont give me any dramas down the track. I am moving away from Sydney in a few months and want to get everything done that I may want/need before I leave.

Price break down:

Injectors, Splitfires,FPR $1500 incl. delivery from Nengun

Fit injectors $250

Fit FPR $100

Fit splitfires $free

Tune $450

$2300 (and I rounded to $2500)

To add cams will cost me $300 to fit and $800 to buy. which will bring the total to $3400

Injectors are maxing out anyway thought it would be a good time to put the 555's in.

I had the injectors about 12 months ago when we did the first round of tuning and was told we didnt need the injectors just yet and to save them for when I had more mods done - I wish I had just put them in back then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3361532
Share on other sites

I'm just suprised your stock injectors got you to 270rw... I take it you have z32 etc. Definately get injectors and some splitfires if your packs are playing up, then you should be set.

Yeh a lot of people were surprised with the stock injectors. Yes have z32, coils are not playing up at all, no misfire issues at all.

Any ideas how much I can expect to get back for my stock bits?

Coils, Injectors, Cams?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3364400
Share on other sites

Repeat, DONT need FPR.

put the cams in.

Awesome midrange increases. Good top end increase too, depending on how stressed your turbo is.

Make more power, on less boost. Allows your engine to spin harder too.

Win + Win + Win

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3364593
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Repeat, DONT need FPR.

put the cams in.

Awesome midrange increases. Good top end increase too, depending on how stressed your turbo is.

Make more power, on less boost. Allows your engine to spin harder too.

Win + Win + Win

Thanks for the advice, I bit the bullet and bought all of it, cams, injectors, coils. Turbo is good for 550 hp so should see a bit more hopefully. Getting a bit close to the limit of the stock internals though when will they go bang!!!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3383738
Share on other sites

why the splitfires when there was nothing wrong with your current coils? cams definitely a good idea though. I have the tomei's in mine

can't hurt right!!

I like preventative maintenance - didnt want to put cams and injectors in and possibly start having misfire issues.

I am also still planning a rebuild and want to but all of the 'extra' bits necessary so the rebuild doesnt hurt as much when I finally get it done. Having cams,splitfires, injectors all out of the way reduces the 'rebuild' cost significantly.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3383777
Share on other sites

yeah thats true. I did the same thing...apart from the coils. Get the parts out of the way for the future rebuild. But the engine has held on strong without the rebuild

yep exactly another $2k that wont need to be spent at rebuild time.

I am hoping to get an increase of maybe 15 kw to take it to 285-290rwkw which is plenty for the stock internals and plenty enough for a daily street car.

My tuner is excellent so what ever it ends up with will be safe and most importantly drivable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3383789
Share on other sites

How can your tuner/ fitter for the cams give you a fixed price for the cam installation?

Do you know if your going to need new shims..or that maybe it might be time to change your springs?

Or maybe you might need to change the retaining bolts(Cam fixing bolts)?

BTW..hope you have cam gears...

Have you read up on cam installs?

$300 sounds like a..drop in don't worry about clearances..same shims..hope the motor still is ok once it leaves the workshop.

Please keep us posted with the cam install...all the rest of the fitting are just bolt on....cams can be a little more tricky.

EDITED: Bad Grammar

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3383848
Share on other sites

Do you you are not going to need new shims..or that maybe it might be time to change your springs?

Or maybe you might need to change the retaining bolt?

Please keep us posted with the cam install...all the rest of the fitting are just bolt on....cams can be a little more tricky.

I think he's running an RB25. Hydraulic lifters.

Point noted on springs, though most punters seem to get away with OE springs if using Pon Cams.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3384042
Share on other sites

I think he's running an RB25. Hydraulic lifters.

Point noted on springs, though most punters seem to get away with OE springs if using Pon Cams.

Yes RB25, bought the Tomei 256 poncams. Should I buy new springs as well?

Oh and no I dont have cam gears, I sold them ages ago, another mistake? Should I buy just the exhaust gear again to keep the VCT?

Little concerned about it now but thanks for the advice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3384045
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...