Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am soon to be installing a new front pipe and catback to my GTR. I have done catbacks before and they are easy to do.

I was wondering if it is difficult to install a front pipe on a GTR? Is there alot of things in the way or is it fairly simple and straight forward with minimal hassles?

I have heard that dump pipes are pretty much a turbo out job which is out of my capabilities but i just want to be clear that i can do the front pipe myself.

I will be using a pit to do the work.

Any help is appreciated

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185828-r33-gtr-front-pipe-installation/
Share on other sites

pretty sure you don't have to take the turbos off for front pipes nismoidy. there is just 4 nuts that hold them to the dumps which you should be able to get with a long extension on your ratchet.

I havent got the money to pay for them at the moment otherwise i would, plus i think my turbos are right near the end of there life judging by the oil smoke coming from my exhaust tonight while driving around, so thats another expense :thumbsup:

I was told last service the seals werent 100% i think they have gotten way worse, any ideas on a rough cost of turbo replacement like gt2860-5r or N1's turbos would be?

Edited by Cooper

GTR to replace dumps = turbos out , front pipes no need to remove anything other than front pipes , 2 14 mm nuts on each dump , all you need is a long extension and if you have a uni will come handy for one of them .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...