Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

ive installed the turbosmart tee mbc and it seems to be on 8psi and ive turned it about 10~ notches from 0, is this normal? the hose coming from the recirc to the solenoid is still connected but the lower solenoid hose has a screw jammed into it? is this ok?

post-45004-1252231217_thumb.jpg

my boost gauge reads -24inhg when driving off boost when im not touching the throttle but -20inhg when idle, this normal too?

  • 1 month later...
ive installed the turbosmart tee mbc and it seems to be on 8psi and ive turned it about 10~ notches from 0, is this normal? the hose coming from the recirc to the solenoid is still connected but the lower solenoid hose has a screw jammed into it? is this ok?

post-45004-1252231217_thumb.jpg

my boost gauge reads -24inhg when driving off boost when im not touching the throttle but -20inhg when idle, this normal too?

Not too sure what's going on there as I can't see the MBC...but you don't need to keep the standard solenoid on. You can disconnect it.

Just run the hoses from the intercooler pipe to the MBC input side and then from the output side to the wastegate actuator (gold 'bell' joined to the turbo if you aren't sure).

That should do it, then just slowly wind up the boost until your neck breaks.

Any more probs with it let me know! :cool:

  • 9 months later...

hey guys,

if i install this type of boost controller. Is there anyway of knowing (or judging) the psi with out a boost gauge? I know this might sound stupid but I do not have a boost gauge, and im worried if i just install it with out one i could cause some serious damage.

  • 2 months later...

Hi installed the Turbotech mcb today on my R34 GTT. works really good. boost spools up quicker. Was a bit of a hassle removing the hoses but all worked out!

Heres some pics of how i installed it below. I just followed the same principles at this forum.

Before: some directions i added to pic

post-22350-1285999048_thumb.jpg

After

post-22350-1285999121_thumb.jpg

Cheers!

  • Like 1

Just ordered one of these.

I have a speco boost gauge but have never paid any attention to it. So after I install this boost controller do I need to drive the car around and keep an eye on the boost gauge and see how high it goes?

What's a safe level for a r33 gtr stock.

Thanks guys.

  • 2 weeks later...

i have followed these simple instructions. well done they are very good. My problem is the following. How do you know which way to put the boost controller in. I am using the drift t shaped controller it has one end that is 3 - 4mil wide and the other side is 1 mil wide.

To make it simple which end goes to the waste gate actuator small or big

also does anyone know how many clicks is safe on this sort of boost controller. don't have a boost guage inastalled yet am planning on doing it soon.

  • 1 year later...

ok ive done mine wrong lol . so i understand now what to do the line from the intercooler goes to the boost controller and the other end goes to to gold bell thing..got it. my olny question is what do u do with the

vacume line that goes down and back onto some pipe that hooks onto the inlet pipe that my pod is on.

Edited by drewthegun

ok sooo im looking at the pic you jam a bold in the line that went to the top of the solnoid and you connect the intercooler and the waste gate one to the new boost controller...

so what happens in the pic d/c from lower solonoid? so you disconnect that line and pull it out or what??

  • 10 months later...

with my solenoid i have some original looking hoses on them so they look like theyre connected, shove a little screw on the end of em and clamp them up.. just in case you get pulled up by coppers and they see it's still connected..have the hoses run down below.!! ftw

  • 3 months later...

I wanna install the manual boost controller for my r33 S2 with standard turbo but aftermarket FMIC(no hole from the intercooler pipe) as well,one hose connect to the wastegate, and where can another 1 connect to? Anyone know?? Can anyone post some photo on???

Cheers

Edited by j_tucker

you already have a boost controller, use the same hoses.

See pics in first post to see factory solenoid which is what you are replacing with the Manual BC.

You might need to post a pic or look around a bit more =)

  • 4 years later...

So I have just put in my MBC.

i have the waste gate actuator point connected to the actuator itself and the intercooler point connect to the intercooler pipe. The recirc line is still connected and the second line blanked off.

i have taken my car out, but is still not boosting above 0.5bar.

even when I crank it right up!!?

what am I doing wrong? 

8E83919F-44C6-4F47-8F1E-868CCA1E0A4B.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...