Jump to content
SAU Community

I Need A Heavy Duty Clutch For My R-33!

blitz r33

By blitz r33,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

blitz r33 Collaborator

blitz r33

Posted
Posted

i recently seen my mechanic to get a quote for a heavy duty clutch and he told me that it will cost $300 plus another $100 to install it.

then he says that it will damage different areas on my car and it can eventually crack my firewall.

do yous know what hes on about cause one of my friends says the clutch has nothing to do with a firewall .

also any ideas of what clutch i should get for it.

thanks.

(B1) MR_fanny Grand Master

(B1) MR_fanny

Posted
Posted

thats strange hey. does he work on skylines alot? and um $300 for a heavy duty clutch doesnt sound that heavy duty to me, especially if it will cause damage to other areas of the car. $100 is dirt cheap for labour, sounds like a small back yard job or super mates rates. id say find or at least ask another mech in my opinion.

good luck with it.

charlie25T Proficient

charlie25T

Posted
Posted
thats strange hey. does he work on skylines alot? and um $300 for a heavy duty clutch doesnt sound that heavy duty to me, especially if it will cause damage to other areas of the car. $100 is dirt cheap for labour, sounds like a small back yard job or super mates rates. id say find or at least ask another mech in my opinion.

good luck with it.

tell him to shut up ...............if the clutch in 300 then it aint heavy duty

plus i have had a heavy duty clutch in my car for over a year and nuthing has happened

r33nut Apprentice

r33nut

Posted
Posted (edited)

:laughing-smiley-014:

Im a mechanic and that is one of the funniest things i've ever heard. As for the $300 dollars, for my heavy duty clutch i spent $350, but i got it trade price. Spend $500 on the clutch and it will last unless you have big power, and as for labour I would expect $300-$400 for fitting.

Edited by r33nut
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

yeah minimum for a brand new heavy duty is $350... at $300 he's probably putting a Nissan Patrol clutch in your car, which is technically heavier duty than your standard one. $100 labour's not bad tho.

As for firewall... wtf? unless the flywheel is machined down so much that it gets too light and somehow rips itself off and flys up through your bellhousing and into your firewall. likelyhood 0.00000000000001%

find a new mechanic.

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted

Excedy heavy duty clutch!! 340 only

This is what i have.. has been for last two years and still going strong!!

Supports up to 240kw..

--

and yea your mech is a noob.. lol

A heavy duty clutch in mine hasnt caused any problems!!

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted

these are the type of so called "mechanics" that should be shot

i wouldnt let a guy that says that look at my car, let alone touch it...

Definately find another bloke, but changing a clutch isnt that hard and if your handy with the tools you can do it yourself. I would recommend exedy as a brand, anything with a stronger pressure plate, and depending on you power maybe some thing with a ceramic facing clutch plate

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
As for firewall... wtf? unless the flywheel is machined down so much that it gets too light and somehow rips itself off and flys up through your bellhousing and into your firewall. likelyhood 0.00000000000001%

there's a guy on here that managed to do that. The flywheel literaly exploded and tore the car to pieces!

R34GT-t_07 Enthusiast

R34GT-t_07

Posted
Posted

if u were to get a havy duty clutch it wont damage anything in your car but if u were to get a brasbutton clutch then u could pop ur box unles ur car is extreamly moded. normal hevy duty wont do any damage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • MBS206
      remote oil cooler hose size, 8,10 or an12?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...