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How much are the shotpeened rods and ARP rod bolts costing?

Should have spent a few $$ more (if anything by the time you finish with them) and got a set of spool forged rods that come with rod bolts for $890 and then comfortable you can flick it to 8k with a set of good cams. Shotpeened rods you still can't rev to 8k safely.

You really should have listened to those who have been around the VL's etc for a long time. Shotpeened rods is a waste of time in the RB30's.

As spoolup says himself..

http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SPOOLRB30CONRODS.asp

YOU CAN NOT PREP A SET OF STD RODS FOR THIS PRICE BY THE TIME YOU HAVE ( RESIZED THE MAINS, REBUSHED THE SMALL END, SHOT PEENED AND LINISHED THEM, FITTED ARP ROD BOLTS AND BALANCED THEM - AND STILL THEY WONT HANDLE AS MUCH HP AS THESE )
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Its was $100 + Post for shot peened, linished and balanced rods and ARP bolts..

Because I wont be touching the head for a while now, Im not going to be taking to 8K. 7, mabey. I wont be producing much power/torque up that high just by doing the bottom end. So there isnt much point be going that high.

Im not interested in revving the chops off it to be make a large power figure, I want response and FAT torque and power band.

lmao.. well for that cost I'll most happily take my words back.. Thats a bargain.

Even still get some 265 duration cams and drop them in. Should work nice. Tighe cams do a 265 8.9mm lift GTR cam regrind for these that costs around $220 last i checked.

Hunt around u can find gtr cams for 60-100max.

lmao.. well for that cost I'll most happily take my words back.. Thats a bargain.

Even still get some 265 duration cams and drop them in. Should work nice. Tighe cams do a 265 8.9mm lift GTR cam regrind for these that costs around $220 last i checked.

Hunt around u can find gtr cams for 60-100max.

wouldn't you need to convert to solid lifters then?

lmao.. well for that cost I'll most happily take my words back.. Thats a bargain.

Even still get some 265 duration cams and drop them in. Should work nice. Tighe cams do a 265 8.9mm lift GTR cam regrind for these that costs around $220 last i checked.

Hunt around u can find gtr cams for 60-100max.

Mama didnt raise no fool :thumbsup:

It was an opportunity too good to pass up

Its not a bad price.. Ill have to do some overtime shifts.. and see if I can afford to drop those in too.. Cheers mate

Question still stands.. which pistons to use?

Hows the list looking? something I missed? Anything I dont need?

man - im starting to drool.....

im hopefully getting a r32 next yr and i was not sure on what to get - i think i might get a cheap 4 door n/a and do a 'cheap' rb30/25 hybrid (just the usual block, non vct head, highest cr pistons that are around - 25de i believe and some cams, exhaust and intake)

blow the socks off all my mates cars thats for sure....

sorry had missed your post on at the bottom of the first page.

Bottom End:

3L Bottom end ~ $150

Series 1 (thicker block walls + no oil turbo feed) (Non turbo – CR)

Acid Dipped/Cleaned? ~ $70

Balanced crank ~ $100

Bearings ~ $80 - Necessary?!?! Big end bearings AND mains? or just one set?

Decked block 2mm = ~10.5:1 CR

Con Rods

Shot Peened AWAITING

Rod Bolts (ARP) AWAITING

Lightened Flywheel

E-bay Flywheel ~$267 + Post

Oil Pump

Crank/oil pump collar ~$70

Rb25DET/Rb20DET?

Timing Belt ~$100

Headers – Group Buy $180 + $60post + Heat wrap $50

Oil Cooler ~$150 + Hoses OR E-bay Brisbane ~$300 Hektic Blue

Total: ~$1200

Should I use my current Rb25DE pistons?

Thoughts? comments on shopping list or pistons is muchly needed!

P.s Anyone have a lazy RB30E block laying around they want to get rid of?

overall list looks fine, like you mentioned block work while the motor is out. the head can be bolted off again later.

i'd would use the s2 block due to the oil squirters (someone confirm me, i am 99.99% sure)

would do the big and and the mains, while the block is out.

decked block would depend on pistons, i have no clue what compression RB30E's run

rods (shot peened) + bolts = fine

flywheel; can honestly be done at a later time unless you are also doing a clutch now?

oil pump + collar = definitely

timing belt = Gates brand; don't forget to re-locate the tensioners

headers, not vital can be done at a later stage (may have some block height clearance issues, 30mm?)

head gasket, not using one? make sure to get a thin one :thumbsup:

oil cooler, can be done at a later date.

check what the 25DE pistons give you, and check what the 30E pistons give you, also double check the forgies - if they are for a 25DET your compression might be too low. I wouldn't pass off on any yet until you get some solid calculations and numbers sorted.

overall the list looks fine, there are some parts i feel you can do without or can be bought after a majority of the motor has been built. no doubt some things will cost more than budgetted for.

the way i look at things is that there are 3 general areas; block, head and g/box. the head and g/box can be removed easily to get work done at a later date. the block is something that should be done first time and done right.

hope that helps? (it's early so forgive me for any errors)

i'd would use the s2 block due to the oil squirters (someone confirm me, i am 99.99% sure)

im 99.99% sure that no rb30e block came with squirters

the s2 block came with an oil feed spot due to holden wanting to go turbo - so nissan changed the casts slightly to accomodate that

im 99.99% sure that no rb30e block came with squirters

the s2 block came with an oil feed spot due to holden wanting to go turbo - so nissan changed the casts slightly to accomodate that

maybe it was the other way around? you might be correct, make that -99.99% sure :rolleyes:

Just a quick one for you, I finally got my RB30DE going last week...

We have over 86kW at the wheels at just over 3000rpm and 235Nm of torque. This is on a very very light run in tune, just need another 500kms or so of running in then back on the dyno for a full power tune.

I'll let you know in a couple of weeks what we manage to screw out of it...

Just a quick one for you, I finally got my RB30DE going last week...

We have over 86kW at the wheels at just over 3000rpm and 235Nm of torque. This is on a very very light run in tune, just need another 500kms or so of running in then back on the dyno for a full power tune.

I'll let you know in a couple of weeks what we manage to screw out of it...

Please do mate!

Im curious just to see what a 11:1 CR 3L and 2.5L VCT head will produce..

235Nm sounds pretty good @ 3000RPM!.. but 86KW is still about 30-35KW shy pf what Id like just with a 3L bottom end..

Im not aiming for a power figure.. cos thats just silly and pointless.. Its response Im lookin for..

Im thinking about using the turbo oil feed to feed the VCT and block off the turbo water feed..

Ill post another post within the next few days with more updates and photos of rods and bolts..

HOPEFULLY by the end of the yr it will be complete..

Edited by GTS4WD
Please do mate!

Im curious just to see what a 11:1 CR 3L and 2.5L VCT head will produce..

235Nm sounds pretty good @ 3000RPM!.. but 86KW is still about 30-35KW shy pf what Id like just with a 3L bottom end..

Im not aiming for a power figure.. cos thats just silly and pointless.. Its response Im lookin for..

Im thinking about using the turbo oil feed to feed the VCT and block off the turbo water feed..

Ill post another post within the next few days with more updates and photos of rods and bolts..

HOPEFULLY by the end of the yr it will be complete..

i just read on www.r31skylineclub.com that user GTS_143 (on here aswell) recorded a whopping 230rwhp or 171rwkw on a rb30/25 n/a built engine

here an exerpt:

In a thread posted by B.J here , GTS_143 hit a dyno comp yesterday I believe, (recieved a call from low_31_turbo last night).

He pulled 237.7rwhp / 177rwkw from his RB30DE, running 31 degrees advanced timing and 98octane pump fuel.

He didnt pop the bonnet before he got on the dyno, and when he did recieved some sAfrican Americans from the MC and the crowd, (something about "This wont take too long the car wont break 170hp")

Before too long shaun took up the first run and before the cams had time to kick in the dude doing the run backed off, Surprised by this Shaun asked why, and it was easily explained by the fact that the car had already run off the dyno sheet - as it had been set too low.

theres something to live up to and beat.....

i wonder how the RB30DE cost would compare to just dropping in a new-ish VQ35DE?

i've been thinking that lately, you're looking around $6K+ for a 6 speed.

wiring is a headache. there's so many control modules, bcm, ecu, blah blah for the VQ series to make it run stock. that's why there's not really any sort of aftermarket ECU (PFC style) for them.

that said, alot of guys in the states have done it.

you'd be looking at $10K+ just to get a stock VQ in there, unless you could do alot of the work yourself.

i've been thinking that lately, you're looking around $6K+ for a 6 speed.

wiring is a headache. there's so many control modules, bcm, ecu, blah blah for the VQ series to make it run stock. that's why there's not really any sort of aftermarket ECU (PFC style) for them.

After re-wiring dads R32 GTS-T To fit in an Rb25DET VVL from a R34 GTT.. I hope I never have to re-wire and engine again!..

Its such a rediculous amount of work!.. it took EASY twice as long as getting all the mechanicals working for it..

Edited by GTS4WD

Hay guys!..

A thought hit me!

Can I use all the Rb30 bottom end parts, rods, crank etc. etc. etc. in my Rb25DE block? Saves me from having to buy a front diff adaptor, relocate the pullies, timing belt, new bearings, harmonic balancer and having to re-drill the VCT oil feed?

I just need to know everything before I start ripping the car apart..

Thanks in advance guys!..

Rods and bolts should be arriving tomorow, will get pics up soon!..

Its possible but requires you to destroke the crank slightly, use the std rods and then grab a set of custom pistons to sort out the very much reduced pin height.

For any sort of increased power I would be looking at a set of forged rods as the the rod side loading will be increased due to the long stroke short rod setup. So not all that crash hot for bore wear in theory BUT it does seem to work ok.

So not really a cheap exercise but it has been done in a 26 block by Willall Racing here in SA.

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