My Rb30det R32

[zebra]

There Is a thread on here about that...have a search, its pretty huge so you can't miss it....Id find it for you...but...distinct lack of motivation lol

Edited September 26, 2007 by zebra

[lwboosted]

yeah it can be done.. and has been done many times.. have a look in the rb30 thread all answers are in there...

silicon joiners arived today.. i also orded some dirty big clamps so they will come tommorow.. so it will go for its propper tune sometime next week..

slight problem i have noticed today though...

once the engine is warmed up it seems to be hunting at idle.. sometimes really bad!! so much that i have to steady it up with my foot or it will stall... it stalled probly about 5 times on the way home from work.. when i go to put my foot down it hesitates, drops about 100rpm, then takes off.. i hope this is making sense? i belive it could be something to do with the TPS? if i let the revs drop from anything over 3000rpm it will drop all the way to 0 then, if it doesnt stall, run back up to about 1500 - 2000 rpm then run real shite and conk out...

i also have a dodgy coil pack somewhere.. it has only happened once but it ran on 5 for about 5 mins then became fine.. so i will have to wait till it does it again to find which one it is.. could this be something to do with it?

thanks leigh.

[Cubes]

The hesitation will most likely be something to do with possible vac leaks OR accel pump settings.

The running on 5; mine used to do that when the coils were stuffed first thing in the morning; possibly moisture used to get in them.

While your there check the ignitor for cracks around the top lip; if there is ensure its nice and dry and silicon the ridge up.

The stalling/hunt; AAC valve, get it all cleaned up before the next tune.

To clean the AAC pull it off; remove the solenoid and soak it in petrol/carby clean or something. Move the spring in and out unscrew the idle adjust screw etc and ensure there's no gummy stuff inside.

[Dr_Drift]

once the engine is warmed up it seems to be hunting at idle.. sometimes really bad!!

More than likely vacuum leak from the split rubber hose (one of the ones you are replacing )

Will be rectified when we have no vacuum / boost leaks and tune is finalsed

[ardie]

Wow you wernt lieing when you said the thread was massive Leigh.

Well folks, I went for a little drive next to this thing the other night and can safely say that it is going to be one animal when finished. Pulled away from me at the start then I started to drag it back, but the boost response on a semi tune with more boost leaks than a starion turbo is simply awsome, full tune + 18psi = bye bye Ryan. By far the highlight of the night tho was us both gating past the EB falcon that wigged out and pulled over bahaha FEAR THE GATE!!!

Oh and Leigh, if I get rid of my car for the 180 (very likely as have a buyer, just working out deals) I can give you the rb30 I have sitting down in Crib Point if you want (provided its still there).

Ps buy my crap people so my new car can beat this f**ker

Pps SEE I TOLD YOU IT WAS THE BOOST LEAKS LEIGH!!! SAM EVEN AGREES!!!

Edited September 28, 2007 by ardie

[lwboosted]

no its not that as i borrowed another rubber joiner off a mate till the silicon ones came in so there is no longer any split joiners!! i think it is what cubes said.. i am about to go out and fix it all now.. but i did clean all that out about 6 months ago.. didnt think it would build up this fast...

[Dr_Drift]

no its not that as i borrowed another rubber joiner off a mate till the silicon ones came in so there is no longer any split joiners!! i think it is what cubes said.. i am about to go out and fix it all now.. but i did clean all that out about 6 months ago.. didnt think it would build up this fast...

I'm fairly certain it's in the tune... there were boost leaks while we were tuning it, so mixtures are certain to be off...

[lwboosted]

sweet.. well all the silicon joiners are on now and its booked in for thursday for the retune.. so i will let you know how it goes and post dyno sheets..

leigh.

[linedup33]

any updates dude?

[lwboosted]

BAD NEWS PEOPLE!!! went back up yesterday to get it re tuned.. was going quiet well.. we had it at 17 psi and with no timming and it was making 260rwkw then suddelny i heared a scratching noise so we turned the car off and then started it agin to see where it was comming from and it was the turbo!!!!

so we pulled the filter off the front and the turbo was shagged!! the wheel was loose as and scraping on the front housing!! i havnt taken the turbo off yet coz i was sick all last night.. so when i feel better i will get into it!! i dont know whats caused it? any ideas would be good!! i am thinking of getting a 3540 for it instead.. but i dont want to spend another $2000 on the turbo and have it shit its self again.. i dont know weather it was because the turbo was old and at the end of its life or if something blooked up the oil feed line? the car was running sweet for a month so i dont think it was anything i did..???

please give me opinions everybody on what you think i should do, what could have caused it., and how to prevent it??

i have heard of gunk blocking the oil feed line and a way to fix it is to run some sort of filter in there????

thanks leigh.

[Cubes]

Probably just one of those things.

But out of curiosity... Hows the motors oil pressure? Have you had it checked since? Not bleeding off on idle? :S

If you have the turbo overhauled its considerably cheaper than purchasing a complete new turbo.

But do make sure the motors still in good nick and low oil pressure wasn't the cause of the turbo's failure.

The 3540 is ONLY worth while if you bolt on an aftermarket exhaust manifold. The std exh. manifold max's out pretty much as the GT30 does.

If you don't intend of running an aftermarket exh manifold the 3540 isn't worth the additional lag or lag of response in the lower gears due to the bigger wheels containing more inertia.

I've driven a gt35 .82 rb30det and compared to the gt30 .82 rb30 the response difference is like night and day; what I did find interesting is the gt35 isn't all that much more laggier than the gt30 but as I said.. the lack of response kills its 'fun' in the lower gears.

Its still fun by all means but doesn't have that factory turbo part throttle bulk torque off idle feel in first and second.

If you do plan to push 350rwkw then you'll be looking at a set of cams, exhaust manifold, new dump and a GT35r.

In saying that at a later date I will most likely look at the GT35r and squeeze it as close to 400rwkw as I can.

Depends how this motor hangs in; may end up playing with a VG30DET in the little 32. lol sacrilege. lol

[lwboosted]

the oil pressure sits around 4.. exactly the same as the 20.. sometimes it did go down to 2.. but the rb20 used to do the same thing?? could this have been a reason? what sort of price would i be looking at to get the turbo rebuilt? looking at that i dont want to spend thousands more on this car with cams manifold etc.. it would be like starting again!! 270 - 300 rwkw is pleanty for me..

how do i cheak that the motor is still in good nick? and doesnt have low oil pressure? why would it have low oil pressure? dodgy oil pump?

Edited October 5, 2007 by lwboosted

[R31Nismoid]

No way to tell until you pull the bearing cartridge out and see if it was oil related or not.

If the bearings have blue scores/marks. The turbo didnt get enough oil, which is what i suspect.

Turbo was virtually brand new when i sold it (less than 5000kms), and the buyer never used it

[Cubes]

You should see the gauge drop to around 2 on idle, around 4 once over 3000rpm ish.

Excessive out of the norm high or low oil pressure can indicate bottom end problems. Most noticeable on idle.

Dr Drift would have possibly had a quick glance to ensure oil pressure is still good once the turbo let go. He may be able to shed a little light. Either way; get another turbo on it and make sure oil pressure is good.

[lwboosted]

oh ok, where would be a good local place to get it cheaked out (s.e. subs melb) sam said he has a mate that could look at it.. but thats on the other side of the city and i now have no car to drive...

edit: with what you guys said about it being an oil suply problem.. could this have been something to do with what i did? or just a bit of gunk blocking the oil feed line? as the engine has been running fine for a month.. if it were something i did it would have happened much sooner??

Edited October 5, 2007 by lwboosted

[lwboosted]

hey all just an update..

running the stock turbo now.. quiet funny making full boost by 2000rpm..

i took the turbo to mtq turbos and they have quoated me $1410 to get it re built.. they said they found gunk inside it so looks like the oil feed got blocked by something and starved the turbo of oil...

but since i have had my stock turbo on i have noticed the oil pressure all over the place!!! yesterday it was fine.. i changed the oil, 15/60. and the pressure sat on 4 while driving and 2 on idle... but today on the way to work it would only go as high as 3 then after stopping for fuel and re starting the engine it went back up to 4 when driving... but on the way home it went up to 2 - 3 and would not go any higher.. i turned the car off and on and it stayed the same... so it is building oil pressure to around 2 on idol then stays there or goes no higher than 3 when driving....

the oil information i have for the engine follows....

-blocked rear oil feed.

-1.8 restrictor up front

-rb25de oil pump.

what could be the cause of this? could it be a faulty guage? or a problem somewhere? what do u guy think i should do? and how to go about fixing it? i dont want to put the new turbo back on and have it blow again in a couple of weeks!!! all help appreciated!!

thanks leigh.

[Cubes]

My oil pressure has been all over the place since I bought the car 6years ago and ~180,000km's. I've learnt to ignore the gauge.

I've tried a s/h oil pressure sender and that too displayed the same one day fine next day crap oil pressure.

Have it checked on the dyno to be 100% sure. OR fit an aftermarket oil pressure guage.

[lwboosted]

ok my turbo has been rebuilt.. i am picking it up on monday.. before i put it back on i want to check a couple of things first, so the same thing doesnt happen again..

i am going to get a oil pressure guage to make sure its all good as the stock one is all over the place at times...

for the oil supply to the turbo i sort of made up my own line.. it uses the stock banjo fitting off the block with the restrictor.. then i welded a speedflow fitting on the line and continued the rest with braided line and speedflow fittings..the turbo itself does have its own restrictor built it i am told.. so does this mean i am restricting the oil to much? or have i done it right? shouldd i drill out the restrictor in the banjo fitting first? what have u guys done? cubes...?? lol

thanks leigh.

[Cubes]

I believe GCG recommend running a restrictor upstream. Dangerman4 runs a restrictor upsteam as supplied by GCG I do know that.

I have basically the same setup but I used bundy tube silver soldered on to the factory block banjo that then runs to the turbo's inlet with an inverted flare 7/16" fitting.

I haven't had any issues and had the car on the road for some time; clock up around 500-700km's per week. The only thing I do make sure is I use synthetic 5w40 oil and NEVER EVER give it any stick until oil pressure/temp is 100% operating temp.

I don't run a turbo timer but do make sure I drive the car easy prior to shut down.

Giving it stick prior to the oil being at operating temp is asking for trouble. I've found it generally takes a good 7-10mins to get oil temp up and pressure normal after the water temp guage reads its operating temp. So usually a good 15mins after I start driving the car.

Is it possible you had a bit of crap in the block etc that broke loose and blocked something as a result starving the turbo slightly?

Quiz GCG yourself what they think about running a restrictor upstream and let us know what they say.

But yeah.. mines been fine touch wood. probably just a bit of crap floating around caused the problem? I have heard of that occuring with bran new motors due to poor cleaning. :S

[zertek]

drooooooooool