Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

i copped some bad news the other day.... :domokun:

I bought my GTR from Melb in February, cheap with suspicions of a bingle as i only paid 52k for a Black 99 GTR with 37,000kms?? (seven months ago this was cheap, my how quickly times change)

Anyhow......

The front driver side wheel has had a hit (sits in guard an inch further forward) causing the wishbone to slightly bend a degree and a very minor kink in the chassis rail (2 degrees).

To all those who know the 34 gtr, there isnt an ounce of movement or adjustment in the front suspension at all for this prob. :P

It may cost me $2000 to get it on a chassis straightner but im still not guarenteed it will fix the slight 'pull to the left' under load and braking.

Not to mention i just cant look at her again in the same light knowing her previous owner hit her.

My question is, i have a C-West bodykit on order, Nismo Z-tune carbon fibre bonnet and other huge plans for this car but now i question whether this should be the car to receive such an expensive makeover or wether to sell and start fresh on another? so far i have only done the power fc d-jetro.

Oh yeah.... and my missus is preganent, i have a fear that if a sell this one she wont allow me to buy another, but she has given up trying to make me sell this one.

Is a broken one better than no one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186448-to-sell-or-to-mod-my-crashed-gtr/
Share on other sites

i say keep it.... it's not that bad really (by the sounds of it)

good excuse to spend money on it and improve suspension etc...

plus if u go to a good shop they should be able to straighten it like new...

Are you sure its chassis damage?

I have seen several crashed Skylines (GTS-GTR-GTS4) and quite often its other parts that are bent out of shape. Normally i would first look at lower arm, castor rod and castor rod bracket (box section). It may well be fixable, even by using alignment aids like camber bushes, cator bushes etc. Always hard to say with out looking at it though...which id be happy to do if you like.

Just an option.

Cheers

Brad

Are you sure its chassis damage?

I have seen several crashed Skylines (GTS-GTR-GTS4) and quite often its other parts that are bent out of shape. Normally i would first look at lower arm, castor rod and castor rod bracket (box section). It may well be fixable, even by using alignment aids like camber bushes, cator bushes etc. Always hard to say with out looking at it though...which id be happy to do if you like.

Just an option.

Cheers

Brad

Hey Brad, your opinion would be much apreciated! i am going to attend the country cruise on the 30th,

if you are there i wouldnt mind you driving it to see what you think.

the panel beater said leave it..... but i think the 'pulling to the left' sometimes dangerously takes over when giving it a real hard time.

If you not coming to cruise im local to you.

thx

Hey Brad, your opinion would be much apreciated! i am going to attend the country cruise on the 30th,

if you are there i wouldnt mind you driving it to see what you think.

the panel beater said leave it..... but i think the 'pulling to the left' sometimes dangerously takes over when giving it a real hard time.

If you not coming to cruise im local to you.

thx

I will be at the cruise and will be happy to take a look, and if need be give it a drive to see how bad it is. It may be as serious as needing chassis repair but if we can work with it and get around it and get the car back to an acceptable level with out spending every dollar you have on it, then i think we need to have a go at it! Its an awesome looking car and would be a shame if you sold it (especially if your wife may not let you have another :whistling: )

Ill be driving a Silver R33 GTST (Rare car i know) youll know my car when you see it :P

See you there!

keep it.

you would be lucky to find another GTR34 at that good price.

its hard to know a proper history for imports so we can never now 100% how the car was treated.

keep it and fix her up.

once its fixed i dont think it will be pulling tot he left. what did u hit if you dont mind me asking???

with my previous car i was pushed of the road and hit a curb at 80ks which snaped my 18" rims, oput a nice kink on my strut and and very nick kink on my control arm. now allw as fixed apart from the control arm and that caused the car to behave different and pull to the left (where the accident happened) after getting that check and replaced problem was solved

so when you get yours fixed check everything possiable. whishbone, tie rods, struts, upper and lower control arm. whatever is holding the suspension togather just go over it making sure all is well.

its only a little thing so dont get to stressed about ti

you have a black GTR34

dont sell it

if you want i will happily trade my R33 GTST for your GTR and fix it lol

do the make over and fix her up

I didnt hit her ashneel. her ex hit her.

I had the car M.O.T. inspected in Melb whilst i was in Perth. The police inspection found 'NO ACCIDENT DAMAGE' so i paid the dude a hefty deposit.

When i saw the car for the first time it was TRUE LOVE :) i was at a strange train station in taralgon? and it was like what i think HEROIN would be like...I was heading for Victoria at 150kph before i started noticing things(coming down).

dumb i know.....but the skyline made me do it.

i imported a r32 with imports101 my r32 sedan hit a pole in japan,i dont blame them. and chassis rail was bent and front left wheel sits further back didn realise until my 18s rubbed on 1 side but not the other. but turns out when i got under their i noticed they used an s13 control arm to make it drive straight. maybe you could look in something like that mate.and it did pass compliance and pits haha

my mate hit a couple of curbs whilst drifting on the street on both sides of his 32. this made the wheels sit back alot really really noticble.. what we did was by second hand caster rods and lower control arms and fixed her oursleves in about 2 hours or so... for both sides. as he did both side on different occasions.. stopped th pull and we had the work checked over by a suspension guy later on and said all looked fine.. so it might be an easy fix like that

Brad had a look 4 me and he is gonna fit Poly nylathane castor bushes which should help the cause.

The wheel that sits forward in the guards has a genuine gtr arm.

The other side (thats evenly spaced in the guards) is aftermarket? wierd.

Replacing the control arm is out of the question coz they are alloy and big $$. the 34R arms arnt straight like 32/33 so you cant tell if they are bent anyway.

have to see how it goes.

i had a prang in my 32 a year ago front passenger side (stupid woman in an x-trail pulled out in front of me) and now my front left wheel sits forward a little also pulls to the left under braking any ideas on what to do to fix that?

i had a prang in my 32 a year ago front passenger side (stupid woman in an x-trail pulled out in front of me) and now my front left wheel sits forward a little also pulls to the left under braking any ideas on what to do to fix that?

Without seeing it, i will have a guess and say that your lower arm may be bent, or the box section where the castor rod is bolted to has been damaged.

I am a little confused how the damage has made the wheel move forward though? That doesnt really make a great deal of sense to me. As for pulling left under brakes, my guess is there may be something like a sterering rack end bent or something similar causing a bumpsteer type of effect.

Edited by R DIRTY 3
Without seeing it, i will have a guess and say that your lower arm may be bent, or the box section where the castor rod is bolted to has been damaged.

I am a little confused how the damage has made the wheel move forward though? That doesnt really make a great deal of sense to me. As for pulling left under brakes, my guess is there may be something like a sterering rack end bent or something similar causing a bumpsteer type of effect.

yeah i got a new lower control arm when i got it fixed and also got the wheels aligned but still pulls a bit not sure why i totaly replaced all of the suspension on that side so maybe its the steering rack didnt check that

My front wheels are offset differently on each side. The drivers side wheel sits a little bit further out than the left, its probably only about 8-10mm but I noticed it one day. I have a wierd lean in my car, most time I have to pull to the right to get it to go straight other times its left and sometimes I don't need to correct it at all. Brad had checked my alignment twice and he thinks its the tyres, I still rekon its something that a jig needs to fix, but thats costly and I want new rims damnit :):P

I have to get it on a jig sometime to see if it can be straightened.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...