Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after some advice on wat the best size would be intercooler piping wise to suit my setup,

i have a td06 the outlet is bout 1 3/4 inchs, FMIC inlet an oulet tubes are 3 inch and throttle body is stock rb20 which is 70mm i think. the tubing is gona be made out of 316 stainless pipe and the 3 sizes available are 60mm, 75mm and 100mm. would it be better to just run 60mm piping through the system and use adaptors for the cooler an throttle body or 3inch all the way through.

what size does everyone else use?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186514-intercooler-piping/
Share on other sites

after some advice on wat the best size would be intercooler piping wise to suit my setup,

i have a td06 the outlet is bout 1 3/4 inchs, FMIC inlet an oulet tubes are 3 inch and throttle body is stock rb20 which is 70mm i think. the tubing is gona be made out of 316 stainless pipe and the 3 sizes available are 60mm, 75mm and 100mm. would it be better to just run 60mm piping through the system and use adaptors for the cooler an throttle body or 3inch all the way through.

what size does everyone else use?

Cheers

i got 3inch piping for my cooler and its seems fine, i dont think u'll have any problems with 3inch pipes.

AiF

just run 2.5 whole way it will work fine.

and dont bother making it out of 316 stainless just get 304 grade you really really dont need to use 316 grade stainless for your piping

it will cost twice as much for 316 compared to 304

Edited by rb26s13

60mm seems to be the go, i'll ask about the 304 option i dont want anything shiny/blingy the 316 looked like the raw plazmaman plenums in the classifieds section thats why i was gona go that way

Edited by turboedsloth
60mm seems to be the go, i'll ask about the 304 option i dont want anything shiny/blingy the 316 looked like the raw plazmaman plenums in the classifieds section thats why i was gona go that way

316 and 304 can look the same. its all in the finish, im sure those plasmaman plemuns are all polished up to be that shinny. the differance between the two is that, mainly 316 is more expensive, 316 is harder than 304 and more chemical resistant to name a couple.

  • 7 months later...

digging up an old threads never particularly popular but i used the search function.

are there any more opinions on this? eg someone who found their piping a restriction over a certain hp level.

My thinking is why buy a bigger throttle body when your piping is 65 or 70mms?

2 1/4 inch piping doesn't cause any noticeable pressure drop at 220-240rwkw, from the couple of systems ive measured. Therefore 2.5in should flow 300rwkw with similar drop, and stock gtr pipework (3 1/4in!) should be fine for 500rwkw, i imagine nissan had a specific reason for using that size though?

i wouldnt go with 3inch intercooler piping personally all ur going to do is cause more pressure drop due to the bigger pipes

on a street car i wouldnt go bigger then 2.5inch

im running a GT35 on my GTR and im using 2.5inch piping with a 115mm intercooler

i personally think my intercooler is abit to thick for a pure street car but i got it at a very cheap price

i also wouldnt pay extra just for stainless piping when alloy does the exact same job

keep in mind that stainless heats up very fast and it also takes longer to cool down

where as alloy will heat up fast but it also cools down faster then it heats up

this is why all intercooler cores are made from alloy and not stainless

Edited by STR8E180
i wouldnt go with 3inch intercooler piping personally all ur going to do is cause more pressure drop due to the bigger pipes

on a street car i wouldnt go bigger then 2.5inch

im running a GT35 on my GTR and im using 2.5inch piping with a 115mm intercooler

i personally think my intercooler is abit to thick for a pure street car but i got it at a very cheap price

i also wouldnt pay extra just for stainless piping when alloy does the exact same job

keep in mind that stainless heats up very fast and it also takes longer to cool down

where as alloy will heat up fast but it also cools down faster then it heats up

this is why all intercooler cores are made from alloy and not stainless

agreed.

im not sure why ppl put bigger piping on the cold side of the intercooler. with the air now cool, wouldnt bigger piping create a greater pressure drop?? wouldnt this pressure drop affect throtte response?? i would just use 2.5 throughout. keeps it simple

are there any more opinions on this? eg someone who found their piping a restriction over a certain hp level.
does it really matter what an old thread is about, if the same topic is of use to someone else?

LoL, scuze man, I didn't mean to come off rude. I agree It is a rather interesting thread to bring up, just very hard to answer / add to accurately.

When i referred to OP, i meant to imply that 2.5" OD pipe is prolly cool on a maxed out TD05, but maybe not on a ie: T04Z@2bar, hence at a minimum, the power output of the car is a big input factor. Like most things, I woulda thought its about 'using the smallest pipe you can get away with' VS 'accepted flow restriction for vehicle purpose"

The issue is that rarely could i ever imagine someone taking the time to dyno and record pressure in various places in the pipe work, then replace ONLY the pipework and test for a delta. Most of the ppl i know, only change pipe size to match another mod being done at the same time, making "apples vs apples" hard. Reminds me of the thread a few months back "How much do large IC's effect lag / response" ... was lots of "heresay" :D

Edited by GeeTR

I looked into this a little while ago. I came accross a forum that Buschar Racing formed which is into modding Lancer Evo's and they tested intercooler pipe sizes on a Lancer Evo with a Forced Performance turbo equivalent to the GT35. Anyway, this car was pumping out around high 500 low 600 hp and the 2.5 inch in 2.5 inch out piping was less laggy and more hp than the 2.5 inch in 3.0 inch out. From memory we're not talking a huge lag difference and the hp was also only down around 7 hp so nothing really in it at these power levels.

Edited by juggernaut1
Alloy always.

Increased pipe diam post IC, has cooler / denser / thicker air flowing through it in theory.

As per OP, the threads about pipe size for a td06 on a RB20, not a 450rwkw 26.

well from what i remember of high school science. as air cools and becomes more dense (or thicker as u put it) its volume/mass decreases. like putting a balloon in the freezer. it shrinks not expands.

well from what i remember of high school science. as air cools and becomes more dense (or thicker as u put it) its volume/mass decreases. like putting a balloon in the freezer. it shrinks not expands.

Correct, what i was aiming at though, was that thicker post IC piping might help with the increased viscosity of the cooler gas... in theory.

EDIT: Seems the above confused some ppl. Im not talking about using IC -> TB pipes BIGGER then the OD of either IC outlet or TB. I'm adding weight to the already normal practice, where that pipe ends up being wider then the turbo -> IC pipe.

Edited by GeeTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
×
×
  • Create New...