Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Personally I wouldn't touch a 260z. I'd leave it original. It is already slowly starting to fetch more and more money (I have seen some go for over 15k) and if the trends continue I think it is going to be a true classic car a few more years down the track. I would love to get my hands on a 260z.

the reason why i was going for a rb25de and not rb25dett is cause of that stupid p plate law and too many cops no me :blush: as for goin for the L28 turbo its going to cost nearly as much but is very hard to track down tubo set ups in australia because they only came out in the usa

ps i have 2 260z :)

yeh they do go for that price sometimes i was lucky enough to get my second z for that price although it was quite rusty, its taken nearly 2 mounths to cut the rust out and glass and weld the rust holes and the was some bigens so for about an extra $500 of sheet matal, welding rods, glass and some blade putty im now upto $1000 minus seats and carpet and its still unpainted.

as for my first z its cost bout $5000 and it has reconditioned struts $500, recon front end $500, new exaust (yet to be put on), recon 350 holley $120 (its too small need bigger), new/old simmens rims $300, new carpet $200, new tyres $680, new gbox $300 but the price riped me and moved to uk so ill need a new one again plus bits and peices valued at bout $150, so in total money spend rebuilding =$2750 plus $2650 for the car hears some pics still more to do and the spoked rims are no longer on the car but still have them

post-42723-1190944711_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.
    • I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
×
×
  • Create New...