Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well my Gates Racing Timing Belt was making some noise so I figure I just need to retension it.

I have taken out the clutch fan, radiator, CAS and the top timing cover.

I noticed that my Arospeed adjustable cam gear was 2deg advanced and not retarded but then realised that the marks on it must be the wrong way around sothat was a big relief.

I have loosened the bolt for the harmonic balancer which was fairly easy.

The problem I have come accross is that I bought a harmonic balancer puller and got ready to remove the harmonic balancer.

I put the M6 bolts in the top hole and that is fine. I put the other M6 bolt in the lower hole on the harmonic balancer and it gets to a point and doesn't tighten up any more. The damn thing has been stripped of thread!

I am thinking my only option is to remove the current harmonic balancer with the pullers that grab the outside of the pulley.

I would then get a replacement harmonic balancer and install this.

Any thoughts or suggestions people?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187246-harmonic-balancer-problem/
Share on other sites

could use some locktight to try to get it out... their is some sort of stronger stuff but i cant remember what it's called.... just make sure u let it set before u start to pull it off...

I was just thinking about something like that.. wasn't sure if it would be strong enough, might give it a try.

The M6 bolts don't actually go in very far do they. Just out of curiosity, do the bolts bottom out or does the threaded hole go right through the balancer?

Later to put the harmonic balancer back on I just need to put the big washer and bolt in and tighten it up right?

If it doesn't take too much force you can usually remove the balancer with a 2 or 3 jaw puller without any damage.

I have many times, still no issues

just dont go all out on the bolt, watch for flex to see if there is something holding the HB on, and get some dry lube for when you put it back on so its not hard for the next time you remove it.

Thanks for the replies guys.

It is all back together and still noisy which really is really annoying. I won't have a chance to try it again for another fortnight which sucks.

I assume that I use a 3 leg puller (or similar) and grab the back solid edges as in the pic.

What dry lube is best for this application?

post-13456-1191226084_thumb.jpg

something like

http://www.kpg-industrial.com/products/dry_graphite_lube/

not too sure of ones available in AUS since i have used some that i found in the shed thats probably as old as me :D

oh and i just use the first large lip, not the rear lip you have pictured... just be careful to watch for any flexing (havent seen it on mine but i always watch and make sure)

yes be careful. the guy that removed my balancer last to do timing belt change took a few chips out of the edge of the pulley. then when he re-fitted it he didn't do the bolt up tight enough and it slowly came loose which meant the balancer could move around a bit which meant it hammered the keyway. not nice. so the moral is be careful taking it off and do it up as tight as is humanly possible. then tighten some more.

Guess thats why they say 450ft/lb... Insane isnt it.. I remember last time i got it undone with a breaker bar and a whole big trollet jack pipe handle (1.5 metres) I held it hard left then belted the bar with a sledge hammer. It finally undid and i did it back up the same way. A little too tight perhaps as it took a 3/4in rattle gun with the compressor fully pumped (workshop compressor) to finally get it undone! Sorry to change the subject, just thought it was funny :P

I can't remember where I saw it, could have been the R33 manual, it said to put a bit of loctite on the bolt thread. If I did this and I needed to get it off again it would be quite a feat I imagine. Is this crazy talk?

I can't remember where I saw it, could have been the R33 manual, it said to put a bit of loctite on the bolt thread. If I did this and I needed to get it off again it would be quite a feat I imagine. Is this crazy talk?

depends on when you took it back off. if you just did it and forgot something and had to take it off again you'll be right. just check up on how much loctite to use, too much and you will have a mission on your hands.

Just squeeze two screwdrivers in behind the pulley and lever it off the block (not the sump), but wiggle it, one side and then the other - do this for 1-2hrs and you'll get any balancer off :woot:

The only way I ever managed to get that stupid bolt out, was to pull out the startermotor and jam a great big dirty screwdriver into the flywheel, oh and use an industrial strength electric impact gun that once sheared my diff bolts off :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...