Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok when im idling and i turn on my air con, the car revs up to 1500rpm, then drops to 700rpm like it does that quick goes up and down up and down until i turn it off or wait until it settles down, which it does after a while, also its only blowing hot air now (could need a re-gas, but that was done only just a year ago how come its gone so quick), and sometimes when i press mode to skip through where i want air blowing it makes a clicking sound loud and for atleast 30 seconds, heater works good though, although last time i used my a/c was back in april lol and thats when every time i used the a/c the gears were hard to get into, especially 1 and reverse LOL

someone help ^_^ stupid climate control

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187370-air-con-disease/
Share on other sites

ok when im idling and i turn on my air con, the car revs up to 1500rpm, then drops to 700rpm like it does that quick goes up and down up and down until i turn it off or wait until it settles down, which it does after a while, also its only blowing hot air now (could need a re-gas, but that was done only just a year ago how come its gone so quick), and sometimes when i press mode to skip through where i want air blowing it makes a clicking sound loud and for atleast 30 seconds, heater works good though, although last time i used my a/c was back in april lol and thats when every time i used the a/c the gears were hard to get into, especially 1 and reverse LOL

someone help ^_^ stupid climate control

There is a diagnostic check that you can run to tell what the problem is.....

Start car and hold down the OFF button for 5 seconds and it will go into diagnostics mode.....

It will then show you any error codes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187370-air-con-disease/#findComment-3382107
Share on other sites

Probably just coincidence that the gear selection is awkward when A/C on.

The ECU will raise the idle revs when it gets the signal that the A/C is operating. The hunting for idle is probably the AAC valve.

Try holding the "cold" button until the unit displays "FC" (full cold) - does it still blow hot?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187370-air-con-disease/#findComment-3382290
Share on other sites

There is a diagnostic check that you can run to tell what the problem is.....

Start car and hold down the OFF button for 5 seconds and it will go into diagnostics mode.....

It will then show you any error codes.

What's it mean if all the lights light up. all good or all bad.

BTW where do you find all these diagnostic tests?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187370-air-con-disease/#findComment-3382719
Share on other sites

Probably just coincidence that the gear selection is awkward when A/C on.

The ECU will raise the idle revs when it gets the signal that the A/C is operating. The hunting for idle is probably the AAC valve.

Try holding the "cold" buton until the unit displays "FC" (full cold) - does it still blow hot?

so i started the car and held the off button but nothing happened LOL wtf!! cold button? the blue one? its down to 18c but still hot as, sux coz its getting real hot nowadays + i cant believe it needs a regas so quick!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187370-air-con-disease/#findComment-3383432
Share on other sites

so i started the car and held the off button but nothing happened LOL wtf!! cold button? the blue one? its down to 18c but still hot as, sux coz its getting real hot nowadays + i cant believe it needs a regas so quick!!

It could be a leak in your system or you've got a stuffed motor (motor which controls the hot/cold). First thing is try the diagnosis to see what's going on before ripping out your dash.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187370-air-con-disease/#findComment-3384251
Share on other sites

it doesnt want to go into diagnostic mode? :S the clicking isnt normal, as it never happened until recently :) damn ripping out the dash.....oh well perfect time to install some gauges etc etc, i'll try a regas 1st then see what happens, if theres a leak in the system how do i go about fixing that, can it be a diy? or needs to be done professionally

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187370-air-con-disease/#findComment-3386433
Share on other sites

it doesnt want to go into diagnostic mode? :S the clicking isnt normal, as it never happened until recently :D damn ripping out the dash.....oh well perfect time to install some gauges etc etc, i'll try a regas 1st then see what happens, if theres a leak in the system how do i go about fixing that, can it be a diy? or needs to be done professionally

If the car is more than 5 years old the rubber hoses were made to handle R12 refrigerant - the cocktail of gas used now is molecularly smaller and will weep through the pores in the hose - common thing - if you re-gas it will slowly deplete again, only way out is to try and get some R12 - but i doubt if you will. The hoses have to be replaced.The reason it is hunting is because oh the LP switch sensing a drop in pressure and the compressor clutch is comming in and out. sorry

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187370-air-con-disease/#findComment-3386559
Share on other sites

it doesnt want to go into diagnostic mode? :S the clicking isnt normal, as it never happened until recently ;) damn ripping out the dash.....oh well perfect time to install some gauges etc etc, i'll try a regas 1st then see what happens, if theres a leak in the system how do i go about fixing that, can it be a diy? or needs to be done professionally

The clicking noise is worn out gears. The gears which move your vent direction is worn out and the motor slips while trying to turn it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187370-air-con-disease/#findComment-3387219
Share on other sites

yeah same, stupid aircon fan, errm expensive to replace these gears? motor or whatever? how about the hoses? its too bloody hot :) dont even feel like smoking coz its so hot, how about the problem with my gearbox? like it only happens when i turn the aircon on (cold) on heater its fine, once i couldnt get into any gears it would crunch even when i was at a stand still, but if i gave it a rest and came back few hours later would be fine, hence the reason i havent used my aircon for ages lol, try parking without being able to get into gear :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187370-air-con-disease/#findComment-3388401
Share on other sites

That idle up then down is the clutch engaging the aircon compressor, which increases the load on the engine, and the AAC valve increases your idle to compensate so it doesnt stall. The drop down occurs when your thermostat is at the correct temperature and the clutch is disengaged from the compressor. Perfectly normal unless the Aircon switches aint working. The clicking sounds can also be the vents opening and closing, its a common problem apparently, the little plastic teeth come off the rails so im told??? but requires the whole dash to come apart - stuff that

I dont think the size of the molecule matters witht the aircon hose, I think its more the press fittings which are the issue, or any threaded joints especially if youve been moving/bending aircon pipes/hoses about the place to get your FMIC to fit. Take it to an aircon place, they inject a die into the cooling system to check for leaks, make sure you tell them o/wise theyll just fill it up and send you on your way - they love it, cos you come back in six months to get the same thing done. O/wise keep the windows down and make sure your heaters turned up - problem solved :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187370-air-con-disease/#findComment-3392553
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...