Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i recently purchased a 1996 s2 r33 gts-t. Im soon to be installing a aftermarket FMIC (proberly Just Jap).

Can any guys who have installed a intercooler kit who have a stock series 2 front bar please write up or show pictures (woulb be better) of what had to be cut, moved or removed completly.

Thankyou

p.s. please no chit chat, just info and other helpful tips or pictures. :D

post-33678-1191223019_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187466-r33-intercooler-installation/
Share on other sites

You will have to cut the black plastic bit out of the mouth of the front bar.Cut a hole under your washer bottle for the pipe to come through.But if i were you i would get a dump/front pipe before doing an intercooler.

search the tutorial forum section, theres a guide for the ARC kit (the one that pipes into stock positions, pipe pulls a 180 on the cold side and loops back underneath) and also one for the Hybrid (similar to Just Jap kit) so just search around. From memory though the Just Jap ones require trimming of the fan blades, cutting under washer bottle and trimming of the front reo bar.

heres a guide to where you'll need to cut the hole, under the washer bottle that i ripped from the other thread:

post-13452-1191224204_thumb.jpg

you'll need to cut out the front reo bar in 2 places for the fmic to fit up to 2 existing holes on it (you'll see them when you take the bar off).

ive seen plenty of s2 installs that dont need the front bar to be hacked into with the JJ kits.

its the series 1 bars that need butchering.

I noticed there are two small items i think they are the horns in front of the radiator behind the front bar, do they need to be relocated? does the bar behind the front bar need to be cut to fit the cooler or compeltly removed?

I did look at the two guides, they wernt much help. The Arc kit guide was great, but im not using that kit, so i need to now for a JJ kit. Does the washer bottle need to be re-located? dose the front intrusion bar need to be cut into or removed altogether.

If you cna find any other links for install. please put them up :D

yeah i just installed mine and haven't put the horns back on yet not sure where a good spot is yet, I got mine in without hacking the reo also I hacked my thermo fan and front bar lights instead eek!

post-36364-1191227402_thumb.jpg

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

Got any pics of it all installed? wot did u do with ur washer fluid bottle?

yeah i just installed mine and haven't put the horns back on yet not sure where a good spot is yet, I got mine in without hacking the reo also I hacked my thermo fan instead eek!

I installed the JJ kit on my s2. No trimming of fan or moving horns. Have to cut the centre section of bar out, a little out of sides of bar to allow room for pipes and cut a little bit of plastic bracket off washer bottle if you have to. I also got my mate to weld on a nipple for the boost line. Quite simple, just take your time cutting the front bar as you don't want to cut too much at once. I'm happy with the kit, looks awesome! :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...