Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you just gotta look out for the drifting geminis that will be going faster than you... :P

but seriously, there arent geminis on the track at the same time luckily.

If that were the case you would be my no.1 perfect customer!

If you choose a holden, try and get 'bluey' as its the newest and fastest or supercheap. If you go ford they are all pretty similar. i usually have 'ice freddy' dont ask where they get some of their names...

Hey Ryan do you have any say in the parts they fit in the cars? I hope you didn't recommend they fit those auto adjusting tie rods?

Hey Ryan do you have any say in the parts they fit in the cars? I hope you didn't recommend they fit those auto adjusting tie rods?

:laughing-smiley-014:

I did this about a year ago. Great fun but 5 laps isn't enough. And yeah listen to the instructors to get the most out of it. Unless if you get Ryan...

The day I went 2 cars had a sheared input shaft from people grabbing reverse instead of 4th. Does that still happen? Practice your shifting from 3rd to 4th coz that's all you use in these cars at Calder.

people think they can make up a ton of time by shifting as fast as they can. they are usually the people who know very little about going fast but try to. The fords have got a hardened input shaft now, which makes them last longer, but they still break eventually. same with the whole driveline, eventually they break, but its usually someone who flat shifts or tries hard to get it into the wrong gear that seals its fate.

None the less, its impressive how much these cars hold up to. in summer on high 30deg days they go all day (8hours) and rarely miss a beat. You could drive them on the limit all day if you look after it.

  • 1 month later...

make sure u get the new 6L VZ they have, i think they call it nemo (it was a water damaged car) then put on the track, when they got it it had head and cam package pulled like 280kw@rears but the dogs pulled the cam out n put a stocker in so as u guys wouldnt kill urselves lol, but it still has a ported head and higher compression then the rest as well as some neat extractors, deff the 1 to go for!

not any more, nemo is now the slowest one out there... there are lots of new ones now that are a lot fresher... strangly nemo is the one that got caught in floods in perth i think.. The one you are talking about would be bluey or fuso. they were clubsports therfore they were quicker so they had to slow them a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...