Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Pads For The Track.

BNR32t

By BNR32t,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

BNR32t Proficient

BNR32t

Posted
Posted (edited)

I haven't taken my car to the track yet and i am just woundering what pads i should use.

i would just be putting them in driving to the track going for a run and taking the pads out again once i got home.

I have a solid (vented)front rotor and drilled rears. I will get slotted rotters for the car in time but untill then i will stay with the setup the last owner had.

Its a r32 GTR.

Also after the best tyres for the track and where to get them?

and can you run semi slicks on just the wakefield licence.

Cheers

Keith

Edited by BNR32t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188200-brake-pads-for-the-track/
Share on other sites
a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted
I haven't taken my car to the track yet and i am just woundering what pads i should use.

i would just be putting them in driving to the track going for a run and taking the pads out again once i got home.

I have a solid (vented)front rotor and drilled rears. I will get slotted rotters for the car in time but untill then i will stay with the setup the last owner had.

Its a r32 GTR.

Also after the best tyres for the track and where to get them?

and can you run semi slicks on just the wakefield licence.

Cheers

Keith

I will probably be going for the EBC red's for everyday use and track (designd for the track as they need to heat up to be most effective). Are you looking at changing the rotors as well? You normally let the pads bed in to the rotors and swapping and changing them would seem to limit their effectiveness.

I'm still considering tyres, Ladybytes swears by here Federal 595 RS's.

The wakefield licence allows you to run full slicks if you want.

MIVEC Mentor

MIVEC

Posted
Posted
I will probably be going for the EBC red's for everyday use and track (designd for the track as they need to heat up to be most effective). Are you looking at changing the rotors as well? You normally let the pads bed in to the rotors and swapping and changing them would seem to limit their effectiveness.

I just had these installed last week along with some new RDA rotors. You're sure as hell right in that they need to be warmed up to be at their best.

sl33py Mentor

sl33py

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've got EBC reds. Yep you need to dig into them a bit when not really warm to stop fast. I'm very happy with their stopping power in general in combination with my RDA front slotted rotors and about to try them on the track. They are half worn already, so we'll see :( My mechanic says the EBC Greens are even more track oriented and need to be warmed up even more!

Edited by sl33py
leech_ Grand Master

leech_

Posted
Posted
My mechanic says the EBC Greens are even more track oriented and need to be warmed up even more!

Your mechanic is wrong then :( the greens are a "performance" steet pad. the EBC Red's are more of a "high performance" street/Track. I ran RB74's on wakefield and although some people say they are not as good as some other brands when you way up the $$$ vs performance i thought they did bloody well, no break fade or anything like that

a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted
I just had these installed last week along with some new RDA rotors. You're sure as hell right in that they need to be warmed up to be at their best.

They still break as well as ordinary pads when cold? Just lots better when warm?

It normally takes 500km to get the pads and the rotors to bond most effectively. Hopefully it will improve over time?

MIVEC Mentor

MIVEC

Posted
Posted
It normally takes 500km to get the pads and the rotors to bond most effectively. Hopefully it will improve over time?

Yeah hopefully they eventually stop squealing loud enough to wake the dead after 500kms!

Frink Veteran

Frink

Posted
Posted
What are the ferodo's like everyday?

Or are they just a track pad?

im still using them on my car and they've been on the car for a year and a half! (done 3 full track days on them). they are great on the street. they take about 2-3 normal braking applications to warm up and work effectively, but once you've done that, they're perfect. as an everyday pad, i would recommend them.

as for the track, they are also great. they can handle big temps and wont fade (in my experience anyway). i warped my brake discs before my brakes faded, then my fluid boiled, but the pads stayed true and still to this day will stop my car on a dime....

BNR32t Proficient

BNR32t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

will is ds2500 the part number? Will they go straite into my r32 standard rotors? Or will i need a different part number?

Cheers Frink, Cause i work at repco and we sell ferodo's so it might be a cheap option for me.

thanks heaps mate.

Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted

For Brakes I would go for Bendix Ultimate, they're great for everyday driving, takes about 2 good stops for them to get good "bite", I used them at Texikhana recently and had no fade, sqeal, grinding or excess heat... They were great.

For tyres - street legal semi slicks go for Federal 595RS, best bang for your buck tyre available.

Frink Veteran

Frink

Posted
Posted
will is ds2500 the part number? Will they go straite into my r32 standard rotors? Or will i need a different part number?

Cheers Frink, Cause i work at repco and we sell ferodo's so it might be a cheap option for me.

thanks heaps mate.

they should do straight in the rotor, they do for 33's. you should be able to research the part number in the cataloge you should have behind the desk (im only guessing...). they are more expensive then the Bendix Ultimates, but i think its worth it....

its funny, just as i say all these good things about these pads, only this morning they ran out pad and i now need new ones! oh well, they're still a great pad....

a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted

I'm now considering EBC yellows, better in all ways to the reds except for dust. Not so sure on the quietness though, they don't advertise that.

Considering I can land a full set (F+R) for the GTR for $330, that is a huge saving.

TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted (edited)

you will find the EBC yellows are more of a track pad than the reds, if its for everyday street use even EBC recommend against going the yellows over the reds.

edit: makes more sense now.

Edited by TiTAN
a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted

EBC says:

Ultra high friction pads for race use but perfectly safe for street use (Formula 1846).

Although a full race material and capable of high temperature use with very good wear life, this new formulation sets a new trend in race type brake pad compounds that can be used on the highway. The “bite” from cold is superb which is uncommon with race materials (normally requiring warm-up) and makes this a pad which can be safely used on both street and track. This new formulation has been used by numerous championship race and rally drivers and is truly a milestone in brake pad material development. Nominal friction coefficient 0.5 with zero rotor damage and similar dust to original pads.

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/yellowstuffinfo.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...