Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Pads For The Track.

BNR32t

By BNR32t,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

BNR32t Proficient

BNR32t

Posted
Posted (edited)

I haven't taken my car to the track yet and i am just woundering what pads i should use.

i would just be putting them in driving to the track going for a run and taking the pads out again once i got home.

I have a solid (vented)front rotor and drilled rears. I will get slotted rotters for the car in time but untill then i will stay with the setup the last owner had.

Its a r32 GTR.

Also after the best tyres for the track and where to get them?

and can you run semi slicks on just the wakefield licence.

Cheers

Keith

Edited by BNR32t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188200-brake-pads-for-the-track/
Share on other sites
a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted
I haven't taken my car to the track yet and i am just woundering what pads i should use.

i would just be putting them in driving to the track going for a run and taking the pads out again once i got home.

I have a solid (vented)front rotor and drilled rears. I will get slotted rotters for the car in time but untill then i will stay with the setup the last owner had.

Its a r32 GTR.

Also after the best tyres for the track and where to get them?

and can you run semi slicks on just the wakefield licence.

Cheers

Keith

I will probably be going for the EBC red's for everyday use and track (designd for the track as they need to heat up to be most effective). Are you looking at changing the rotors as well? You normally let the pads bed in to the rotors and swapping and changing them would seem to limit their effectiveness.

I'm still considering tyres, Ladybytes swears by here Federal 595 RS's.

The wakefield licence allows you to run full slicks if you want.

MIVEC Mentor

MIVEC

Posted
Posted
I will probably be going for the EBC red's for everyday use and track (designd for the track as they need to heat up to be most effective). Are you looking at changing the rotors as well? You normally let the pads bed in to the rotors and swapping and changing them would seem to limit their effectiveness.

I just had these installed last week along with some new RDA rotors. You're sure as hell right in that they need to be warmed up to be at their best.

sl33py Mentor

sl33py

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've got EBC reds. Yep you need to dig into them a bit when not really warm to stop fast. I'm very happy with their stopping power in general in combination with my RDA front slotted rotors and about to try them on the track. They are half worn already, so we'll see :( My mechanic says the EBC Greens are even more track oriented and need to be warmed up even more!

Edited by sl33py
leech_ Grand Master

leech_

Posted
Posted
My mechanic says the EBC Greens are even more track oriented and need to be warmed up even more!

Your mechanic is wrong then :( the greens are a "performance" steet pad. the EBC Red's are more of a "high performance" street/Track. I ran RB74's on wakefield and although some people say they are not as good as some other brands when you way up the $$$ vs performance i thought they did bloody well, no break fade or anything like that

a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted
I just had these installed last week along with some new RDA rotors. You're sure as hell right in that they need to be warmed up to be at their best.

They still break as well as ordinary pads when cold? Just lots better when warm?

It normally takes 500km to get the pads and the rotors to bond most effectively. Hopefully it will improve over time?

MIVEC Mentor

MIVEC

Posted
Posted
It normally takes 500km to get the pads and the rotors to bond most effectively. Hopefully it will improve over time?

Yeah hopefully they eventually stop squealing loud enough to wake the dead after 500kms!

Frink Veteran

Frink

Posted
Posted
What are the ferodo's like everyday?

Or are they just a track pad?

im still using them on my car and they've been on the car for a year and a half! (done 3 full track days on them). they are great on the street. they take about 2-3 normal braking applications to warm up and work effectively, but once you've done that, they're perfect. as an everyday pad, i would recommend them.

as for the track, they are also great. they can handle big temps and wont fade (in my experience anyway). i warped my brake discs before my brakes faded, then my fluid boiled, but the pads stayed true and still to this day will stop my car on a dime....

BNR32t Proficient

BNR32t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

will is ds2500 the part number? Will they go straite into my r32 standard rotors? Or will i need a different part number?

Cheers Frink, Cause i work at repco and we sell ferodo's so it might be a cheap option for me.

thanks heaps mate.

Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted

For Brakes I would go for Bendix Ultimate, they're great for everyday driving, takes about 2 good stops for them to get good "bite", I used them at Texikhana recently and had no fade, sqeal, grinding or excess heat... They were great.

For tyres - street legal semi slicks go for Federal 595RS, best bang for your buck tyre available.

Frink Veteran

Frink

Posted
Posted
will is ds2500 the part number? Will they go straite into my r32 standard rotors? Or will i need a different part number?

Cheers Frink, Cause i work at repco and we sell ferodo's so it might be a cheap option for me.

thanks heaps mate.

they should do straight in the rotor, they do for 33's. you should be able to research the part number in the cataloge you should have behind the desk (im only guessing...). they are more expensive then the Bendix Ultimates, but i think its worth it....

its funny, just as i say all these good things about these pads, only this morning they ran out pad and i now need new ones! oh well, they're still a great pad....

a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted

I'm now considering EBC yellows, better in all ways to the reds except for dust. Not so sure on the quietness though, they don't advertise that.

Considering I can land a full set (F+R) for the GTR for $330, that is a huge saving.

TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted (edited)

you will find the EBC yellows are more of a track pad than the reds, if its for everyday street use even EBC recommend against going the yellows over the reds.

edit: makes more sense now.

Edited by TiTAN
a20089 Veteran

a20089

Posted
Posted

EBC says:

Ultra high friction pads for race use but perfectly safe for street use (Formula 1846).

Although a full race material and capable of high temperature use with very good wear life, this new formulation sets a new trend in race type brake pad compounds that can be used on the highway. The “bite” from cold is superb which is uncommon with race materials (normally requiring warm-up) and makes this a pad which can be safely used on both street and track. This new formulation has been used by numerous championship race and rally drivers and is truly a milestone in brake pad material development. Nominal friction coefficient 0.5 with zero rotor damage and similar dust to original pads.

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/yellowstuffinfo.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • MBS206
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...