Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I haven't taken my car to the track yet and i am just woundering what pads i should use.

i would just be putting them in driving to the track going for a run and taking the pads out again once i got home.

I have a solid (vented)front rotor and drilled rears. I will get slotted rotters for the car in time but untill then i will stay with the setup the last owner had.

Its a r32 GTR.

Also after the best tyres for the track and where to get them?

and can you run semi slicks on just the wakefield licence.

Cheers

Keith

Edited by BNR32t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188200-brake-pads-for-the-track/
Share on other sites

I haven't taken my car to the track yet and i am just woundering what pads i should use.

i would just be putting them in driving to the track going for a run and taking the pads out again once i got home.

I have a solid (vented)front rotor and drilled rears. I will get slotted rotters for the car in time but untill then i will stay with the setup the last owner had.

Its a r32 GTR.

Also after the best tyres for the track and where to get them?

and can you run semi slicks on just the wakefield licence.

Cheers

Keith

I will probably be going for the EBC red's for everyday use and track (designd for the track as they need to heat up to be most effective). Are you looking at changing the rotors as well? You normally let the pads bed in to the rotors and swapping and changing them would seem to limit their effectiveness.

I'm still considering tyres, Ladybytes swears by here Federal 595 RS's.

The wakefield licence allows you to run full slicks if you want.

I will probably be going for the EBC red's for everyday use and track (designd for the track as they need to heat up to be most effective). Are you looking at changing the rotors as well? You normally let the pads bed in to the rotors and swapping and changing them would seem to limit their effectiveness.

I just had these installed last week along with some new RDA rotors. You're sure as hell right in that they need to be warmed up to be at their best.

I've got EBC reds. Yep you need to dig into them a bit when not really warm to stop fast. I'm very happy with their stopping power in general in combination with my RDA front slotted rotors and about to try them on the track. They are half worn already, so we'll see :( My mechanic says the EBC Greens are even more track oriented and need to be warmed up even more!

Edited by sl33py
My mechanic says the EBC Greens are even more track oriented and need to be warmed up even more!

Your mechanic is wrong then :( the greens are a "performance" steet pad. the EBC Red's are more of a "high performance" street/Track. I ran RB74's on wakefield and although some people say they are not as good as some other brands when you way up the $$$ vs performance i thought they did bloody well, no break fade or anything like that

I just had these installed last week along with some new RDA rotors. You're sure as hell right in that they need to be warmed up to be at their best.

They still break as well as ordinary pads when cold? Just lots better when warm?

It normally takes 500km to get the pads and the rotors to bond most effectively. Hopefully it will improve over time?

It normally takes 500km to get the pads and the rotors to bond most effectively. Hopefully it will improve over time?

Yeah hopefully they eventually stop squealing loud enough to wake the dead after 500kms!

What are the ferodo's like everyday?

Or are they just a track pad?

im still using them on my car and they've been on the car for a year and a half! (done 3 full track days on them). they are great on the street. they take about 2-3 normal braking applications to warm up and work effectively, but once you've done that, they're perfect. as an everyday pad, i would recommend them.

as for the track, they are also great. they can handle big temps and wont fade (in my experience anyway). i warped my brake discs before my brakes faded, then my fluid boiled, but the pads stayed true and still to this day will stop my car on a dime....

will is ds2500 the part number? Will they go straite into my r32 standard rotors? Or will i need a different part number?

Cheers Frink, Cause i work at repco and we sell ferodo's so it might be a cheap option for me.

thanks heaps mate.

For Brakes I would go for Bendix Ultimate, they're great for everyday driving, takes about 2 good stops for them to get good "bite", I used them at Texikhana recently and had no fade, sqeal, grinding or excess heat... They were great.

For tyres - street legal semi slicks go for Federal 595RS, best bang for your buck tyre available.

will is ds2500 the part number? Will they go straite into my r32 standard rotors? Or will i need a different part number?

Cheers Frink, Cause i work at repco and we sell ferodo's so it might be a cheap option for me.

thanks heaps mate.

they should do straight in the rotor, they do for 33's. you should be able to research the part number in the cataloge you should have behind the desk (im only guessing...). they are more expensive then the Bendix Ultimates, but i think its worth it....

its funny, just as i say all these good things about these pads, only this morning they ran out pad and i now need new ones! oh well, they're still a great pad....

I'm now considering EBC yellows, better in all ways to the reds except for dust. Not so sure on the quietness though, they don't advertise that.

Considering I can land a full set (F+R) for the GTR for $330, that is a huge saving.

you will find the EBC yellows are more of a track pad than the reds, if its for everyday street use even EBC recommend against going the yellows over the reds.

edit: makes more sense now.

Edited by TiTAN

EBC says:

Ultra high friction pads for race use but perfectly safe for street use (Formula 1846).

Although a full race material and capable of high temperature use with very good wear life, this new formulation sets a new trend in race type brake pad compounds that can be used on the highway. The “bite” from cold is superb which is uncommon with race materials (normally requiring warm-up) and makes this a pad which can be safely used on both street and track. This new formulation has been used by numerous championship race and rally drivers and is truly a milestone in brake pad material development. Nominal friction coefficient 0.5 with zero rotor damage and similar dust to original pads.

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/yellowstuffinfo.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
×
×
  • Create New...