Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks like I'll have to stick the ol thumb out for a ride on a SAU cruise then..... ;)

sau flowing through you, yeeesss (yoda voice) get my liscence back really soon just hang me a pm dude on any events ya wanna be involved in and im happy to help! altho im sure your beast would be welcome as most sa members know of you if not know you. ;)

*edit* just stick a couple sau stickers on it like mattys red tow beast :P

Edited by jenkies
to get more power out of a stock engine would u just need to get forgies?

This is more of a forced induction topic, but the answer is NO

Forgies (forged pistons) will only be a small part to make the engine reliable at higher power figures

(ie you dont need forgies unless you push big power figures and want to keep the moror in 1 piece for more than a year)

i never wanted to put ne stickers on my car (mainly the shopping list!) but i figured the skylinesaustralia one on my lil side windows couldn't hurt. besides, there's too many black skylines around ppl mite mistake me for someone else...

i never wanted to put ne stickers on my car (mainly the shopping list!) but i figured the skylinesaustralia one on my lil side windows couldn't hurt. besides, there's too many black skylines around ppl mite mistake me for someone else...

All the more reason to make it look different to the rest of the sheep.......

Can anyone tell me where i can get a f**king manual on females because after tonight i DONT f**king understand their ways at all :cheers: Its like im a magnet to the freak shows of adelaide

I always say that males are like a simple big block V8, easy to understand & always ready to go.............a female is like a complex ferrari engine, close the bonnet and walk away while you still can :cheers:

by chance does anyone hav a PDF form of the Apexi RSM technical and product manual?

I downloaded the english version from the Apexi USA site........but its for the old school RSM

The Japanese site had the right manual, but alas its all in japanese

Trying to logically work out what we did wrong in the wiring yesterday for the speed not to work (worked off a setup map that had 2 versions...........RSM normal or RSM overriding speed cut, we used the latter).

Mind u it felt great to go for a quick squirt in the 31 last nite................the headlights are awesome :cheers:

nah not really steve, thats more for an installation into a lexus :cheers: but cheers anyway

someone was saying the other day that theres a member with a digital copy of it (or access to it)

*edit*

got sent a copy by a mate from 31 club..........he's got a whole heap of manuals like that on CD :cheers:

Edited by Matty 31
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...