Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone here need there guards rolled? Getting my hand on a guard roller next week to roll chad's and possibly my car. If i do a good job on my car, would anyone been keen to get there guards rolled?

Hey ppl, I haven't been on here in ages... Pretty much my Skyline has been in and out of morpowa with cooling and suspected coil issues.

Making me broke in other words. Cooling is all fixed but ever now and then it will drop the first cyl making it run on 5. Diognostic said something to do with ignition something... Has anyone had this problem?

Morpowa are looking more into it

. So... Anyone had this before?

Thanks SAU ;)

Would that make it do it all the time or now and then? Engine light comes on too...

They seem to think it could be from water and coolant getting in the coil...

It's a big job just to get to them on a non turbo.

if water or coolent is getting in there check for a split hose around the top of the motor. I found one in mine i had to replace it..

I had to take mine out roughly 3 times as i tryed new spark plugs and they didnt work, then i tried wrapping the coils in tape and that didnt work, then i put the splitfires in and that worked. Only takes me roughly 10mins to change the plugs/coils now.

Engine light might mean a loose connection somewhere, or could be the coils. Bad coils will make the car chug every now and then but sometime seem fine.

Would that make it do it all the time or now and then? Engine light comes on too...

They seem to think it could be from water and coolant getting in the coil...

It's a big job just to get to them on a non turbo.

Engine light comes on whilst still running?

Misfiring really comes down to a few basics. It's either the spark plug itself, the coil, ignition amp, ECU issues, or any of the wiring and connections between the listed components. It's just a matter of working through each item and removing it from the equation until you pin point the problem.

I would start with identify which cylinder it's dropping and then go from there. If the plugs are all fresh and aren't being continually re-fouled then look at swapping the coil over from the cylinder that is dropping out and see if the problem follows - it might take a bit of time if the problem is intermittent (intermittent problems are a PITA).

Make sure you also clean the coils and the area in between the rocker covers and ensure they are all free from moisture. If moisture (from coolant or any other source) keeps appearing after you've cleaned it thoroughly then something is certainly amiss and it's not a coil problem!

I've got 6 factory RB25DET coils in perfect health sitting in my shed that can be used for testing purposes - unfortunately they probably won't help on a R34 RB25DE.

Good luck.

Engine light comes on whilst still running?

Misfiring really comes down to a few basics. It's either the spark plug itself, the coil, ignition amp, ECU issues, or any of the wiring and connections between the listed components. It's just a matter of working through each item and removing it from the equation until you pin point the problem.

I would start with identify which cylinder it's dropping and then go from there. If the plugs are all fresh and aren't being continually re-fouled then look at swapping the coil over from the cylinder that is dropping out and see if the problem follows - it might take a bit of time if the problem is intermittent (intermittent problems are a PITA).

Make sure you also clean the coils and the area in between the rocker covers and ensure they are all free from moisture. If moisture (from coolant or any other source) keeps appearing after you've cleaned it thoroughly then something is certainly amiss and it's not a coil problem!

I've got 6 factory RB25DET coils in perfect health sitting in my shed that can be used for testing purposes - unfortunately they probably won't help on a R34 RB25DE.

Good luck.

Yeah engine light comes on while it's running like that then goes off when it's back on 6.

The coolant issue was sorted with the new cooling system so I know how it could have got wet.

Morpowa said it's a big job to get to them? Taking off water lines and stuff... Like a 2 hour job.

I think it may be coils as luke said cos that's what it does... Sounds good for a Rex but when ppl see it's a skyline it's embarrasing!

Its not a 2hr job lol u dont need to take the inlet manifold off, just the throttle body and use a whole heap of sockets. If u get splitfires and need a hand yell out and i'll do it.

Mitch, maybe the guy who sold you the car blew the previous rb26, got a cheap half-cut, threw in that rb26 and then sold it to you?

Crazy stuff dude.

nah he went from an rb25det to this rb26dett

will hopefully know whats wrong with it tomorrow, id LOVE to buy an rb26 from an R34 gtr but that wont happen.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that's a fair assumption. I'm presuming they call them solid lifters as they have no moving parts like hydro lifters. 
    • I believe you're confusing WMI with water injection. Looking at that graph, the 93aki+WMI car is making more power than C16 race gas. Boost juice, which is what I also run, is Snow Performances 50/50 premix. 
    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
×
×
  • Create New...