Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay, so get this. I was noticing that my forum posts were getting a little pale, and washed out, so I went to the local office supply store to get a new ink cartridge for my keyboard, and, would you believe it, they didn't have any. I mean, I know my keyboard is getting on in years, but is that any excuse not to carry the refills? Do they really expect me to buy a new keyboard every year just to keep up with them? Anyway, I figured that maybe it was just well hidden, so I cornered a clerk and asked him where the keyboard refills were, and he just stares at me! So I ask him again, and he says he doesn't know. So then I ask to talk to the manager, and he says he'll go get her, and as he's walking away from me I can clearly hear him laughing under his breath. That's just rude.

Moments later Linda, the manager, comes out, and I ask her where the keyboard refills are, and get this: She tells me that they don't exist! Now I've had to put up with a lot of crap through the years as a consumer, but this was a new one, even to me. I mean, if you don't carry the damn product, just admit it! Don't lie to me just to cover up your failings. I mean, does she think I'm an idiot, or something?

Anyway, to make a long story short, I don't think I'll be shopping there anymore. I would go into more detail, but it suddenly occurs to me that I need to go order a new ink cartridge somewhere online before I run completely out of ink.

CA18DET, loom, t28 turbo, fmic, full exhaust, ecu, surgetank setup with external pump also, aftermarket manifold and gearbox.

its a full drop in and go!

wats it worth?

Edited by rad32
CA18DET, loom, t28 turbo, fmic, full exhaust, ecu, surgetank setup with external pump also, aftermarket manifold and gearbox.

its a full drop in and go!

wats it worth?

Ill sell you my complete 220kw CA18 setup but you aren't going to like the price. Cost of the parts including engine, trans, GT2871R, 1200kg extreme clutch, exhaust, inter and oil coolers including hoses and piping loom, custom billet parts, tuned ECU (3 day tuning) basically everything you need is $10,400 and i'll be selling it for a bit over half.

PM me if your interested. LOL

Edited by D_Stirls
are u one of the girl guides that helps with the flags at dawn service...

i hope it f**king pours

except when we're outdoor doing dawn service. but if it does, so be it.

bacon n eggs with the diggers is worth a few drops of h20

-D

nah, not dawn service my friend. we're armed and not so dangerous for the main march (read: rifles but no ammo unfortunately). keep an eye out near the rear of the march for the current active units. I'll blend in with the rest, but i'll be in amongst 3rd Field Squadron, Royal Australian Engineers

nah, not dawn service my friend. we're armed and not so dangerous for the main march (read: rifles but no ammo unfortunately). keep an eye out near the rear of the march for the current active units. I'll blend in with the rest, but i'll be in amongst 3rd Field Squadron, Royal Australian Engineers

ahh. they given u a 303 SMLE or a FN FAL ?

I used to do that march when I was an army cadet... a loooong long time ago

was always an interesting day

-D

Freebies anyone? I wouldnt use it personally but hey its free use it on a daily or something haha http://www.turtlewax.com.au/sample.php

still waiting on my chamois from last year... wonder where did that go...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...